Saturday, August 21, 2021

Butterick B6628 Top - Another New Top

This third pattern review is also a wearable muslin.  The fabric that I chose is a bit too heavy for the style of view A.  The little front tie is too stiff.  The drape of the front is not as fluid as the photographed top on the envelope.

Butterick's description is:  Close-fitting knit tops have neckline, sleeve and front variations with stitched hems.  A: Tie front, three-quarter sleeve.  B, C: Gathered wrap front.  B Elasticized three-quarter sleeve.  D:  Gathered wrap front with peplum.  No provision provided for above waist adjustments.  For moderate stretch knits only.  This pattern was published in 2018.  

I selected view A because I like the waist tie.  The other views have been published again and again.  Another thing I like about this pattern is that the back has a slightly curved back bodice with a center back seam, which is a little easier to adjust for a sway back.  My other fit adjustments were minimum.  

FBA - It might look a little intimidating.  But it was easy.  I simply added a bit to the front armhole and along the upper side seam.

FBA - For the front side.  Use the front bodice to mimic the FBA on the side front pattern.  I also drafted a neckband.  I hate the neckline finish:  turn, press seam allowance, and stitch.  My neckband measurements are 2" X 8.25" to be placed on the fold.

Swayback - tuck, a little more on the sides, and lengthen at the hem to balance it.

Aside from my small changes, the top was easy to sew, the instructions typical.  No problems. 

I'm going to give this one another try in a lighter knit.  Hopefully, the fabric will result in the drape illustrated on the pattern envelope.

There are a few versions of all the views on Instagram.  Check it out.  So is this is your style, give it a try.

Happy Sewing!


Friday, August 20, 2021

McCall's M8115 - Something New

This month, so far, I've made four new tops.  I'm in "need" of some new ones. Lol.  So I decided to try McCall M8115.  This is one of the newer patterns that also has a name, Sierra.  

The pattern is designed for woven fabrics.  But I decided to used a knit that I purchased at JoAnn's a few months ago.  I made this my wearable muslin.  This top helps me with fit adjustments for my woven fabric version. 

McCall's description is:  Pull-over dolman faux wrap top with hem variations.   It's available in sizes XS to XL.   I sewed View C using between sizes medium and large with a few other modifications.

My version looks similar to the photo and drawing.  The difference is I used a knit and the FBA resulted in a few gathers below the bust.  

The instructions were easy and the top went together with no problems.  I was able to sew it up in a few hours.

I like few of the design elements:
  • faux wrap - flattering on my figure type
  • flared lower bodice - also flattering on my figure type
  • Dolman sleeves
Nothing to dislike.

I made a few of my usual fit adjustments:
  • Sway back tuck, added length of tuck to the lower back to balance the hem.
  • FBA - Slashed and spread, soft gather of the lower edge of upper front bodice
  • Lengthen facing accordingly.
Now, I need to decide on a woven fabric for the second version. I do recommend this pattern to other sewists, all levels.

BTW - I didn't find any reviews on Pattern Review, and only a few people posted their versions on Instagram.  I guess this pattern is not a favorite or sewists haven't gotten around to making it yet.  Anyway, I think it is worth a try.  

More to come soon.  Happy Sewing, my friends!

Thursday, August 19, 2021

Minerva ITY Silky Knit - McCall M7812 and Simplicity S9147 Third Time Is A Charm

This is a showing of a new top and pair of pants using patterns I've used before.  Once I work out fit issues of a good wardrobe staple pattern, it's so easy to make it again and again.  Such is the case with both M7812 and S9147.

It's been a few years since I used McCall 7812.  Here is the link to my review.  Simplicity 9147 is a new release, and I've made a modified version of the pants three times in less than four months.  Link to initial review is here.  Both patterns are now a TNT (tried and true) for me.  

For my latest version of the top, I used a lovely ITY silky knit from Minerva Fabrics.  I love the bold print and the vibrant colors.  Perfect for my little blue and red wardrobe.  My slacks are made using a beautiful stretch woven that I got from Mood Fabrics several years ago.  It was originally slated for a dress, but I changed my mind. Lol.  I have enough left  for a vest, which I'll make later.  Both fabrics were pre-washed and dried before I cut into them.  

So here is to TNT's.  Which TNT's do you most often grab?  Please share. ;-)

Happy Sewing!  More to come.



Wednesday, August 18, 2021

Jump Starting My Fall Sewing - Simplicity S9222

Today, I was determine to post something.  Anything, in fact, about the sewing projects that I've completed in August.  So, after dinner I decided to start writing this post right away before something else distracted me.

My gardening injury has healed to the point of a slight soreness and numb at the tip of my finger near my fingernail.  Anyway, I'm now able the type out a post on the computer.

Carol's Dress

At the beginning of the month, I sewed Simplicity S9222.  It is a fairly new pattern and I haven't found many reviews on it.  Carol Crocker-Ware inspired me to try it when she posted her version on Facebook.  

So, here is my little review of Simplicity S9222.

Here's the description provided by Simplicity:  "Misses' knit dress with asymmetrical draped bodice; long or short flared skirt has three sleeve lengths.   I'd like to add that the neckline is finished with a neckband and that the bodice drape is created by horizontal pleats at the lower front and back bodice.

This pattern is available in two size groupings:  (6-14) and (16-24).  I used is 16 with almost no pattern adjustments.  Surprise!  Also, I have to admit that the sizing runs a little large.  Initially, I made a no dart FBA.  When I tried it on, there was just too much fabric throughout the bodice.  Especially,  in the front armhole area, the sides had to be taken in, and the center was hanging much lower than the rest of the bodice. Oh, I forgot to say, I didn't make a muslin. So, I ripped out all the affected seams and removed the excess.  Luckily, it was not difficult to readjust the width and length. In the end, my dress looks like the illustrations provided on the envelope. 

The instructions were typical.  Nothing difficult or confusing in them.  I made view C with a few minor changes in the construction.  The pleats were not deep enough for me.  So, instead of making them about 2.5" long, I made them about 5" long. I also added a few inches to the skirt as I have long legs and I wanted it to fall just below my knee.

What I liked most about the dress is the drape affect that the pleats make.  Additionally, the flare of the skirt and that the neckline is completed with a neckband.

My dislike are the length of the shoulder seams.  I don't understand why the Big-four add so much length as the size goes up.  It's almost always too much.  The fit of the sleeve was too loose.  But it's also that way on the model.  

My fabric definitely speaks fall.  I purchased it from Fabric Mart Fabrics earlier this summer.  It was on sale for about $4.99 per yard.  I bought four. It is a crepe knit with moderate stretch. I love the drape of it, and it wears well.

I don't think I will sew this pattern again because I have so many dress patterns to try.  But I do recommend it to others.  It is a fairly easy pattern and the sizing or ease is very forgiving.

This was a good project to jump start my Fall, 2021 sewing.  It was easy to sew with nice results.  I recommend it to all level sewists.  This dress can be worn by itself or with a nice jacket or cardigan. 

Parting Shot:  A silly photo taken after my little photo shoot.

Stay tune for more pattern reviews.  That's all for now, my Darlings!  


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