Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Plush Warm Faux Fur and Burda Style Magazine Coat

It is no surprise that it is too cold to breathe outside.  This year is no different from any other year.  We can count on single digits with sub-zero windchill temperatures in January.

I am so happy that I finally made my Chocolate/Black Faux Fur coat.  It's super warm and cozy, perfect for the breathtaking arctic winds that have found their way back our fair town.  This soft faux fur has been sitting waiting for me for over a year.  I must admit, I was a little apprehensive about making my coat.  Because I wanted it to be just right.

The wait was worth it.  My coat is just right for me: the fit, color and style.  Faux fur coats and denim are on trend.  So that how I'm wearing my new coat today.  See more trend styles on my blog, here.

The pattern that I selected is from Burda Style Magazine, October 2008, View 101.  Burda's descriptions are just as sparse as the construction details.  The high collar is perfect for my long neck. The overall silhouette is a-line with the hem hitting just above my knee.  The no fuss raglan, bell 3/4 length sleeves makes sewing them super easy.

The sizes are 36(4/6) to 44(14).  I used 14 with modifications.  My coat looks similar to the photo in the magazine with the exception of the thickness of the faux fur.

Let's not talk about the instructions.  I decided not to follow them.  So I just used some basic construction techniques that I've learned over the years.

Some tips to consider if you plan to sew this coat:
  •  Adjust stitch length to 3mm when sewing the faux fur
  • Used a jersey machine needle, size 14
  • Because of the backing of the faux fur, I decided to interface the entire coat with Pellon apparel interfacing - SF101 black shape flex fusible.  Be careful not to crush the pile.
  • I did not heat press any of the faux fur seams.  I just finger pressed them.
  • Used a crepe back satin for the lining.
  • The same pattern pieces are used for the lining.  Be sure to trim the lining accordingly to properly fit/join front facing and the neck facing.  
  • For me, the pockets are a little high and too small.  You may want to test the replacement before sewing them.
  • Make sure you pick the fur out of the seams so there is no interruption in the fur.
Fit Adjustments:
  •  FBA.  I know you are probably thinking why.  I think I needed one.  My first placement of the dart was too low.  So I moved it up about an inch and curved it a bit.  

  • Broad shoulder adjustment on the back coat and back sleeve.

  • Added two inches to the length of the coat
  • Added a few inches to the length of the sleeves, but used the added length to create a deep hem.

I may or may not make this coat again.  With Burda I would probably lean towards making it again for all the work involved with tracing the pattern.  The style of the coat is exactly what I wanted.  That is my "like".  My dislikes are: tracing the darn Burda pattern and the lack of construction guidance given in the magazine.

Overall, my coat turned out very well if I may say so myself.  I did notice some incorrect placement of a few of the snaps.  That's an easy fix, which I will correct immediately.

That is all for now.

Happy Sewing!

Monday, January 18, 2016

Glittery Knit Jumpsuit - McCall 7099

This jumpsuit was ready to sew for over two months. Last week, I finally sat down to sew it up with hopes of wearing it to dinner. It did not make it's debut at the dinner party, but I did finish it on Monday afternoon. So it's ready for the next evening event.  This is one of about twenty UFO's I'd like to sew soon.

McCall's describes this jumpsuit as: MISSES' ROMPER AND JUMPSUITS: Loose-fitting romper and jumpsuits have raised neckline, mock wrap, gathered, blouson bodice, front band extending to back neckline, elasticized waist, and side pockets. B, C and D: tapered. Sizes are:6 to 22; I used 14 with a few modifications. My finished jumpsuit did look like the drawing and pictures.

It reminds me of styles worn in the 80's. I even went through some old patterns to find similar styles.

My likes:
  • mock wrap
  • dropped shoulder seams
  • loose fitting top
  • tapered pant leg
  • Centered back facing
No problems with the instructions.  They were easy and typical.  Nothing confusing about them.

The fabric used is a shiny blue on black knit that I picked up at Joann's.  After I started working with the knit, I did notice that the recovery was not the best, but I will certainly get a few wears out of it.

Not many alterations wear needed.  I made a FBA.  Three small pleats wear made to take up the added width due to the FBA. Also, I added three inches to the length of the pants and added two inches to the length of the sleeves.

I have so many patterns to try.  Right now I don't think I'll make it again.  But I do recommend it to all level sewists.  It's easy to sew and the style can be worn by most body types.

 Happy Sewing!

Cleansing My "Sewing" Palate - 2016 The Next Course

These past few weeks I've thought long and hard about where I'll go from here.  That is, what is the next chapter in my sewing experience? What are my hopes for a great year of sewing in 2016?   Of course, I read a few "end of the year" reviews and resolutions, which for a moment motivated me to do the same.  But I digressed and thought to cleanse my palate instead.  This phase is associated with eating a meal.  To cleanse the palate is to remove lingering flavors from the mouth so that the next course may be enjoyed with a fresh perspective.

That's how I'm feeling about the my next chapter in sewing.  I would like to clean my palate in preparation for a fresh perspective.  No new year's resolution, no promises to review more, or review more regularly.  Just a fresh start to do better.

Of course, I have a few projects already in the works.  I can promise to post those reviews soon as I have finished them and taken the pictures.  Next up, my review on McCall 7099, Jumpsuit.

At the end of this month, I will be moving.  My big search for a new home has come to an end, and I am happily closing tomorrow.  This has been a dream of mine for several years now.  Blessed to realize my dream.

Parting Shot:  My DD in the living room filled with boxes.

Happy Sewing!

Sunday, January 3, 2016

Peplum Faille Jacket - Burda 7495

I debated posting this peplum faille jacket because I didn't get a smooth sleeve cap. But after looking through the many projects that I didn't post or review this year (2015), I decided that this jacket was note worthy. Not every project is perfect, and it's always good to share challenges with garment construction.

Black polyester faille was ideal for my Burda 7495 peplum jacket. Unfortunately, it is sold out/no longer carried at Mood. But there are several other faille fabrics currently available.  I have my eye on the black and white poke-a-dot on the first page.

Faille fabrics are tightly woven ribbed textile. It has a glossy look, not shiny like most satins.  If my memory serves me right, it was popular in the eighties. I had several outfits made with faille fabric.

Burda 7495 comes in sizes 10 to 20.  I used 14 with several modifications.  There are two jacket views: one with short pleated sleeves and a double peplum and the other is long pleated sleeves with a single peplum.  Both are attractive to me.  The shape of the lapel is flattering and the peplum gives me the appearance of curvier hips.

I made my usual pattern adjustments:
  • FBA
  • Sway back
  • Prominent shoulder blades

The jacket went together with no problems, except for the sleeve cap areas on either side of the pleats.  It's  not as smooth as I would like.  Everything else was  piece of cake.  I did not like the placement of the second button, in the seam between the jacket and the peplum.  So I moved the first button up a bit and put the second button about a inch or so above the peplum.

So that's about it for my review of this jacket. I'm considering making it again with long sleeves.  This is my final review for 2015.

Parting Shot:  I stayed outside longer than two minutes.  I'm so cold it hurts.

Happy Sewing!

Friday, January 1, 2016

Nautical Blue Stretch Rayon Ponte Knit is Perfect in Winter - Vogue 8780

You might think why buy ponte knit from a online fabric store like Mood.  All fabric stores sell it.  Well, I can give you one good reason why Mood is the perfect source to purchase your ponte:  outstanding quality.  This stretch rayon ponte knit is absolutely beautiful.  It has a smooth, soft hand; easy to sew; and the color is vibrant and rich.  It's the perfect textile to make comfortable, but stylish dresses, pants, tops and jackets.

This is one of my last two Mood projects of 2015.  I had hoped to publish these pieces sooner, but the Chicago weather very wintry, and it is difficult to get good pictures.  So I apology for the dark photos, which do not do the fabric justice.  But please know that it is as beautiful as I stated above.  Okay, now for the rest of my review of Vogue 8780, view A.
This jacket was easy to make and I didn't experience any difficulty with following the instructions.  I used size medium with only a few modifications for board shoulders and adding 1.5" to the length of the sleeves.  Because of the fullest of drape collar/front, it was not necessary to make my usual full bust adjustment.

The upper sleeves is a little snug.  And I could have made deeper side seems below the bust area. These are only minor observations and can be easily adjusted.  The inside of the collar and lapel is exposed.  That not a issue with this fabric.  It looks basically the same on both sides.

From the looks of it today, we are in for a long, cold winter in Chicago.  Today was the second attempt at getting good photos for this posts.  It's cloudy and cold, about 29 degrees.  It feels like 15 degrees as I couldn't stand the cold more than two minutes at a time.

In closing, this has been a good year of sewing with Mood fabrics.  I've had many successes and am excited about future projects.  I hope to try some different types of textiles in the coming year.   In the meantime, everyone stay warm.  Happy New Year! ;-)



Happy New Year!!


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