Saturday, October 16, 2021

Three Ways To Wear My New Shacket S9388

This is almost a wordless post. I was lucky to have my DD do the photo shoot today. So here are three ways I can choose to wear my new shacket.

Til next time.

Friday, October 15, 2021

Ready for October with My First Shacket S9388

Just in time! Fall is here! 

On this lovely Fall day temps are in the mid 60's.  It's suppose to be sunny with clear skies. The perfect Fall day.

Also, perfect for sharing my latest sewing project,  my first shacket. 

My last Inspiration post was all about, the now trending, shacket. All of the popular stores are overflowing with shackets. You can find them in a variety of colors, prints, and styles. But I love the idea of designing and creating my very own. 

Simplicity S9388 is the great pattern to customizing your shacket.  My plan is to make a few of these babies over a next few weeks. My first is finished; the second is cut and ready to sew; and the third is a little shacket challenge that Rhonda and I are doing. Please join us if you like. It's a fun project.

Today I'm also sharing my pattern review of S9388.

Button front jackets with yoke, front patch pockets and seam pockets. Long sleeves, button cuffs with pleats. Back yoke with pleat. Lined yokes. Sizes XS to XXL.

I used size medium/large with very little modifications.

It sews up like a typical oversized shirt with a front button placket. My jacket looks like the view B on the envelope. In addition to the patch pockets there are inseam side pockets, that I like.

The instructions were pretty typical too. Nothing difficult. I did change a few of the construction steps though.

There are a few things I like about this pattern:
  • The oversize style. Comfortable and great for layering.
  • Easy to sew
  • Lined yoke
  • Front placket.  Adds stability and nicer detail than the cut-on front facing design.
  • Some seams were bulky and hard to work buttonholes around. This was due to my fabric selection. So it made it very important to trim some of the seam allowances.  This may also inspire a slight design change to eliminate the front yoke and/or use snaps buttons instead of regular ones.
I purchased my fabric from Joann's.  It's a heavy plaid like fannel. They carry it in a few colors.  It's soft and warm, very easy to work with.

I cut between a medium and large, mostly large (upper body). None of my usual fit adjustments were needed. It's extremely over-sized.

Initially,  I added an inch to the sleeve length. Then I had to cut it off plus some. The cuff rests on the upper part of my hand. But that's alright. I I want to be able to wear a hoodie underneath. 

For the underarm curve, I did not trim the seam allowance.  Instead I clipped along the curve to eliminate that plucker look in the armsyce top-stitching. 

My side seam pockets were peeking out at the hem. So I tacked the bottom of the pocket to the hem.

My hem is 1.5 inches.

Note : no serious pattern matching for this project.

I enjoyed making this shacket. It was easy to sew. I recommend this pattern. There are so many style options. 

More to come. Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, September 30, 2021

Shacket - Trending Now Simplicity S9388

Shacket (a.k.a., the shirt jacket)



Just a little inspiration today.  I added Simplicity S9388 to my sewing list.  I want a shacket.  I don't know what color yet. 


Stay Tuned.  More on this upcoming project.

Happy sewing and have a great weekend!


Wednesday, September 29, 2021

More Molly Tees

Two more Molly tees.  I've made nearly a dozen versions of it in the past two years.  It's a bona-fide TNT. I love making this t-shirt.  It sews up quickly, comfy to wear, and great for cleansing the palette after an intense project.

These two were designed/made in an effort to use up some of the knit remnants that I have accumulated over the years. 

This striped one is a remnant from a dress that I made a few years ago. The fabric is a light weight sweater knit from Mood. Dress below.

My second tee is made of two knits: the beige from Mood and the floral print from So Sew Fabrics. I'm pleased with how both turned out. And I'll get a lot of wear out of them. 

What do you do with your remnants? Any creative projects? Or do you donate them?

Happy Sewing!


Tuesday, September 28, 2021

Press, Press, Stitch, Press - McCall 2233

Press, press, stitch, and press.

In sewing, pressing is just as important as stitching. This is something that I teach my sewing students.  One of the first projects that we make is an apron.

An apron gives students repeated opportunities to practice pressing and straight stitching, essential to developing good basic sewing skills.  I like teaching these skills using a basic apron like McCall's m2233.

This apron project was at the bottom of the UFO box that I decided to tackle at the beginning of the year.  Two aprons were cut almost ten years ago!  Last week I decided to finish them. One I will give to one of my sewing students and the other I'll keep for myself.  

The instructions included were antiquated. To form the strap they instruct to sew with right sides together to form a tube, then turn to the right.

Instead, I decided to press by folding it in half lengthwise, then turning the raw edges in. The same way that you would form belt carriers. See below.

The entire apron: hems, pockets, and straps are all completed by a series of folded edges, presses, and stitches.

Benefits to student:

  • Ample practice with pressing
  • Ample practice with straight stitching
  • Ample practice with measuring and forming hems and seam allowance
  • Opportunity to use needle positioning to create double rows of stitching for a hem
  • Attaching straps and "D" rings
In conclusion,  a sewing student is able to create  agreat looking aprons that they can be proud of.

The fabric that I used for these came from Joann's.  A novelty cotton depicting a love for sewing.

That's all for this post.  I'm happy to complete two more UFO'S. 

Monday, September 27, 2021

Birthday Dress Reveal! - Vogue V1672


I'm so happy to finally reveal my birthday dress!

Vogue V1672 is a great pattern design.  I love so many things about it.  This is another one I'm going to make again.  ;-)

My Notes on a Pattern post gave you some information about my initial fit adjustments.  And for the most part they were spot on.  For the actual dress, I still needed to make a few little tweaks.  Nothing major though.  And that is why it is so important to make a muslin.  

Today, it feels like summer all over again.  It's 88 degrees and very sunny.  So we took advantage of this beautiful day and decided to do the photo shoot outside.  I have to hand it to my photographer, my DD.  She is always so willing to help me with the picture taking of me actually wearing the things that I make for myself. I am so grateful to have her help me.

Anyway, here is the rest of my review of this lovely dress.

Pattern Description:  This dress is described as: Lined dress with fitted bodice, side seam pockets, back zipper, and sleeve variations.  It is available in two size groupings (4-14 and 14-22).

NOTE:  The pattern envelope indicates that there are side seam pockets and the back view drawings show pockets.  But there is no pocket pattern included.  This is no biggie, you can used a pocket pattern from another design.  Vogue should update this error.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my dress does look like the pictures on the envelope.  I didn't to the top stitching as shown in view A, and my sleeves are shorter.  I was aiming for more of a 3/4 length sleeve.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  Nothing in them was confusing or difficult to follow.  I omitted several steps based on how I wanted my dress finished.  I will discuss that in the design changes and alterations.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There is so much I like about this pattern.  It has great bones.  My likes:

  • I love the full skirt.  It is very lady like.  I didn't have to make adjustments to the side on the dress.  Often with this type of skirt, I sometimes need to shorten along the sides of the dress.
  • mock wrap dress.  This is one of my favorite necklines.  And the design/fit of it was perfect, even after my FBA.  No small tuck needed.
  • Lined dress.  One of my usual preference.  
My dislike:
  • I didn't like not being able to easily try on the bodice during the construction process.  I had to base the center back seam (zipper) to see how the fit was coming along.  Nothing else.

Fabric Used:  As stated before, my fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  I purchased it awhile ago and it is no longer available.  It is a cotton/rayon blend I do believe.  Easy to work with, easy to press and soft to the touch.  I tested a piece in the wash.  Just to see if it washes well.  It did.  But I will be sending this dress to the dry cleaners.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  My usual fit adjustments.  See Notes on a Pattern.  Additionally, for the FBA I shortened the Dior dart by half the length.  It looks better.  My design and construction changes:

  • I only lined the bodice.
  • I added hem tape to the hem of the sleeves and skirt.
  • To eliminate the fear of the center front gap or opening, I tacked at the intersection of the front.
  • Shorten the sleeve length
  • Positioned the back shoulder dart on a angle.  It also looks better.  See back bodice adjustments.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I will probably make a summer version. Also, I may use the bodice and/or the skirt with other designs.  I love this pattern, and recommend it to others.

Conclusion: Love, love making this dress and how it turned out.  The design is classic and I think it looks good on me. ;-)  

Happy Sewing!



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