Tuesday, January 25, 2022

Notes On A Pattern - New Look NL6560

Today I wanted to share my pattern fit adjustments of a recent project for Minerva Fabrics.  I actually made these adjustments a few years ago and made a top using New Look 6560, view D.  That top was gifted to my sister, and I didn't think about blogging the details about the project.

This month Minerva is hosting a challenge using New Look patterns.  I decided to use this one because it was ready for use.   My goal is to share the pattern adjustments in case another sewist is planning to try the pattern that may need to make similar fit adjustments. 


There is a lot going on with these two pattern pieces.  First, I made the FBA on the front rotating the side dart to the gathers above the bust.  Zoom in to see details.  Along the neckline about where the two front pieces intersect, I made a 1/2 inch tuck to reduce gapping at above the bust and in the neckline.  

For the front facing, I added length based on the FBA on the front blouse.  I also made the same tuck to make sure the pieces matched.  As you can see, the lower part of the facing is wider than the upper part.  That's ok.  But you can widen the rest of it as well making sure you do the same to the back facing.

Next, I added the same amount of length to the flounce to make sure it matched up with the front and the facing.

Prominent Shoulder Blades

I simply sliced the pattern from the shoulder seam to the hem to add the desired width.  To true up the shoulder seam, I added a small dart.  The vertical back/waist darts is slightly wider too.  But these can be adjusted as needed.  

I didn't do my usual sway back adjustment because I will wear this top with a belt. 

Note:  This top is really short.  I added about two inches to the bottom of the front, back and front facing.  Check the length to make sure it long enough for you. 

So that's all for the adjustment on this pattern.

Stay tuned!


Monday, January 24, 2022

Notes On A Pattern - Adding Welt Patterns to Vogue V1294

Goodness, I haven't done a Notes on a Pattern in a while.  Being on Instagram more these days, make it so easy not to come to blogland to surf or post.  

So many of my recent posts have been made well after I've posted on Instagram or to other platforms.  I want to get back to reading blogs and posting on a more consisted basis.  Yeah, I know, I've said that before. 

Anyway, this note is about adding welt pockets to a pair of pants.  One of my goals is to continue to add more welt pockets to my garments.  For these pants, I simply used a welt pocket pattern from another pattern.  Sorry, I can't remember which one.  I made another copy of the pieces and added them to the envelope of Vogue V1294.  I already know I will make these pants again.

I really like the draft of these pants.  There is a "real" fly, and the curved waistband is the best.  Also, the crotch isn't super long.  I didn't have to shorten it.  The width of the pant leg is great too.

Before I added the pockets to the pants, I did a test pocket just to make sure. ;-)  It turned out perfect.  Next, time to add the pockets to the back of my pants.  This was the next step in the construction after I made the darts.

Placement is really important.  From what I've read, the tip of the dart shouldn't extend pass the bottom of the welt. 

But I notice that my pockets are a little low on the back side.  So, next time, I think I'll add an inch to the top of the waist.  It won't be too much above the waistline as these sit kind of low to begin with.  And with that small change, I can raise the pocket an inch.

More later on the making of my pants.  Stay tuned.

Parting Shot:  View of my pockets with me wearing the pants.  I'll post a full photo after I post to Minerva's website as this is a Minerva sponsored project.

Sunday, January 23, 2022

January 2022 - The Month of Knit Top M8238 Burda Style 6990 M7836

My last post was a pattern review on McCall M7836, View C.  I didn't have any photos of me wearing the top at the time of the view.  Since then, I had an opportunity to take a few photos along with photos of two other knit tops that I made the same week.

Before I talk about the other knit tops I made, here are a few pictures of me wearing M7836, View C.

I'm wearing a pair of McCall 8244 leggings that I made sometime in October, I think.  I didn't bother to review them.  They were super easy. I was just waiting to show them with a new top or tunic.

You know I really try to maximize my use of patterns that I like.  So, my little collection of TNT patterns is growing.  Lol. I made another version of M8238-B and another of Burda Style 6990-D.


I just made a little minor change of making it a little smaller for a closer fit.

Burda Style 6990-D

Minor change to this one too.  I didn't have enough yardage to make the sleeve one piece.  So, I added a cuff like to make my desired length. 

Happy Sewing!


Wednesday, January 12, 2022

First Garment of the Year! McCall M7836

Today I'm sharing my first sewing project for 2022.  This is the third top that I've made from McCall 7836.  The second one hasn't been reviewed yet.  I gave it to my sister early last year and almost forgot I made it.  

My initial plan was to make all the views.  But now I don't think I'll make view D.  My favorites are this view and view A.  I'll probably make them again.

This top was made to wear with a pair of leggings that I made a few months ago (I'll review them later this month.).   

I used size 16 with only a design modification.  The sizing was good for me without making a FBA.

For the most part, my top looks like the top the model is wearing on the envelope.  The top was easy to sew and it went together with no problems.

There are a few little things to look out for.  The notches on the two front and two back patterns do not line up.  See photos below.  No biggie, just line up the top and the bottom edges and sew them together.  It comes out even.  There was nothing confusing in the instructions other than that.

My likes:

  • Drop shoulders
  • Mock turtleneck
  • Cold shoulder and the drape of the sleeve
  • Once I finished the top, I didn't like the width of the shoulder opening. It was too wide for me.  So I decided to make a braided strap to kind of control how wide the opening falls and to make it easier to wear with a traditional bra.  I think the strap adds a little more style to the top too.

The fabric I used is a stretch polyester velvet that I purchased at my local JoAnn's Fabric.  It washes and dries beautifully.  And it was also easy to sew.

I will probably make this again.  It's stylish and is a great top to wear with leggings or close-fitting pants.

I do recommend it to others.  This is not a new pattern.  And I think many sewists in the online sewing community have made it.  For sure I will make this one again.

Happy Sewing!

Friday, December 31, 2021

Tuesday, December 21, 2021

Turtleneck Sweaters Are A Winter Staple

It's turtleneck season again!

I'm starting off the season with Burda Style 6990.  I think it is safe to say that this pattern is a TNT top for me.  This is the third time I've made view D.  

The sweater knit comes from FabricMart Fabrics.  It's a soft cozy cotton blend sweater knit that washes well and has great stretch recovery.  I needed some more navy in my wardrobe.  So this striped knit is a welcomed addition.

I'm wearing my new turtleneck with another pair of Burda Style 6879 pants made of a textured stretch woven fabric also from FabricMart.  These were made in early October.  This is the forth version I've made.  Other versions of the turtleneck and pants are here and here with full pattern reviews.

Save warm and cozy this winter.


Monday, December 20, 2021

Vogue Cold Shoulder Knit Dress - V1674

I pondered whether or not I could wear an off the shoulder dress. Because of my full bust I shied away from them despite my love for the style.

So Vogue V1674 reminded me of an off the shoulder outfit that the late Whitney Houston wore during one of her concerts.  I wanted to try the pattern but felt that it may not be a good look for me.  Then months ago I saw a really  cute version of the Vogue dress made by a fellow sewist. So I decided to try it.  This is my wearable muslin.  I think I want to make it up in some stretch velvet.

Here is my review of my first try at Vogue V1674.

Pattern Description:   Lined, close fitting dress with invisible side zipper and bodice variations.  For two-way stretch knits only. 

Pattern Sizing:  It is available in sizes 6 - 22.  I used 16, View B, with a few modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, my dress looks like the drawing of view B.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There are quite a few things I like about the pattern.  They are:

  • The cold shoulder design.
  • The drafting of the entire dress.  I like the tapered skirt.  Also, I love that the length of the shoulder was not super long like many of the other big 4 brands.  
  • The easing along the bust area.  I didn't even need to make a FBA.  How great is that?
  • The entire dress is lined.
  • The easiness of making the dress.
  • None

Fabric Used:  The dress fabric is a jersey knit from FabricMart Fabrics with about 40 percent stretch.  I used a beige tricot knit from JoAnn's for the skirt.  The bodice lining is the same fashion fabric as the dress.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a very few minor changes:

  • Added 1" to sleeve length.
  • I didn't line the right sleeve; not enough fabric.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Oh yes, I plan to make view B at least once more.  This one is my wearable muslin.  And yes, I recommend it to others.  

Conclusion: I'm happy I decided to give it a try.  This dress is a easy make. It sewed up much like a t-shirt with a skirt attached.  The difference is the off one-shoulder, elasticized neckline. Oh, and it's fully lined.  Love it.

Happy sewing!



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