Thursday, March 31, 2022

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1858

Today I want to talk about Vogue V1858.  This is one of Vogue's latest pattern releases.  It is basically a princess seam dress with a curve "V" neck front yoke and a back yoke.  Nothing really extra special.  But it has a neckline that I haven't seen.  And that is why a decided to purchase the pattern.  

I considered this to be a relatively easy dress to make.  There is no lining, it has princess seams, and it requires moderate stretch knits.  On the envelope, it indicates a sewing rating of average.  That's okay because there is an invisible zipper and the front yoke may present a little bit of a challenge to get it just right.

Vogue describes the pattern as:  Fitted dress has shaped contrast neck bands, side front and side back seams, three-quarter length set-in sleeves, invisible back zipper, hook and eye closure, stitched hems. 

I made some changes: no invisible zipper and I hand-stitched the hems.  Simple changes.  

But first, as always, I need to make sure the pattern fits.  So, immediately I made my typical adjustments.  Only later to discover that they were a bit too much.  I started by cutting size 16.  I could have used size 14.

Below are my original adjustments.  

The FBA was spot on.  But all of the added width was too much.  

The swayback adjustment was good too.  This time I added the amount removed to the hip area instead of at the hem.  Now this area seems to be a better area to add the length back into the garment.  

Using size 16 in the shoulder area was okay.  But at the very top of the shoulder, an inch or so front and back, was too long.  I adjusted it before setting the sleeves.  So, there was no need to add in the shoulder blade area.  

The overall size selection was a little bit off.  This has happened with other princess seam dresses like Simplicity S1314.  I ended up doing a lot of tweaking to get the best fit in other areas of my body, resulting in huge seam allowances of 1" or more. 

Simplicity 1314

What I like:  the front yoke and princess seam.

Other changes that I made in my dress:  I hand-picked the zipper and added beads instead of installing an invisible zipper;  I added several inches to the length. The dress is on the short side; I hand-stitched the hems.

Right now, I can consider my dress finished.  But I was thinking of adding some more to the dress to make it extra special.  I thought of adding petals of silk flowers:  one at the side bottom hem area and another at the left shoulder.  Or a small panel of lace somewhere.  

This making it extra special feature may not materialize.  It something that I was thinking about. 

These are my notes on this pattern.  I really like the neckline and hope to incorporate it into another dress or top.  We will see. Lol.

Anyway, I hope this information was useful to other sewists who have similar fit adjustments as I do.  

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, March 29, 2022

Simplicity S8992 A Simple Easy Dress


Pattern Description:  Misses' front buttoning dress or cardigan, with options for pattern hacking. Garment length and sleeve length variations. Designed and sized for stretch knit fabrics only. Can be constructed using an overlocker/serger. I used size large with a few modifications. 

Pattern Sizing:  It's contains Sizing XXS to XXL.  I made view A, the dress with belt loops and belt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  It does look like the drawing. I decided to contrast the belt and create a contrasting band much like the inspiration dress. Note:  I made two belts: one in the floral knit and the other in the contrasting ribbed knit. 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were easy and typical. There was nothing confusing in them. A beginner should be able to make this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There is much to like about the pattern. It's a great template for designing your own cardigans and button- front knit dresses. That is one of my favorite elements about the pattern  I like the fit and the style of the dress. This is a great silhouette for me, A- line. Third, the in-set pockets and the front and back facings doubling as a band to add some more interest to the dress.  That's what this pattern is about, having the option to create personalized look.

Fabric Used: This ponte roma double knit is from Minerva Fabrics. I love the vibrant colors and the feel of it.  These colors are so me. And who doesn't love a floral print.  It was easy to sew. I prewashed it and it came out of the dryer soft and fluffy. It's a great piece of textual.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Lucky for me I didn't have to do major fit adjustments. The fabric had a fair amount of stretch, but it's not stretched out when I'm wearing the dress. It just rest nicely against my body. I only added a small amount of width at the bust area. Nothing more.  I was amazed at how well it fits. My other change was in the design. See previous post for that and a few tips.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes. I want to make another dress and a cardigan. This pattern can be used again and again. All level sewists can craft beautiful pieces using this pattern.

Conclusion:  I am very pleased with how my dress turned out.  It sewed together with no problems and it wears like a dream. The colors of the fabric are spot on for me. And the texture of the is lovely.  Happiness.

Happy Sewing!

Monday, March 28, 2022

Contrasting Band - Sewing Tips Simplicity S8992


Simplicity S8992

I recently made Simpmicity S8992 with a contrasting band. Today I want to share how it did it with the front and back facings.

Below are the steps. Sorry no illustrations of those steps. When I made it, I didn't think to take pictures.

From facing to band:

I decided to contrast the band. But before I attached it to the dress, I stitched the interfacing together as well as the front and back facing. Next, with right-sides together, I stitched the outer edge, turned and pressed. This created a clean edge on the band. Finally, I stitched the band to the front and neckline with the right-side of the band facing the wrong-side of the dress, turned the band to the right-side of the dress, pressed, and stitched to the dress along the outer edge.

Stabilized Buttonholes:

To sew neat buttonholes, I used stabilizer.  Also, I adjusted the tension of the foot and the feed dog so that the fabric could flow smooth between the two.

I hope these tips are helpful. I will post more on the dress soon.

Happy Sewing!

Parting shot: Celebrating one of my sewing students' latest creations. Ms. Bonnie made McCall's 8289 dress ( she used a different skirt pattern - not enough fabric for the one that came in the envelop.)  Dress well done! Two snaps up for Ms. Bonnie 

Monday, March 21, 2022

Minerva Fabric - Black Neutral Jacket Simplicity S1781

I finally finished a sewing project.  This one stayed on the table too long.  I started on it in February, and I had hoped to finish it that same month.  I'm glad to move it from the sewing studio to one of my closets.  

This black jacket will be part of my neutral wardrobe.  Already I know that it will be in high rotation, especially in the coming spring and early summer seasons.  I can dress it up or down.  For these photos I decided to dress it down with jeans and one of my molly tees.

For the review, I will try to be brief; but at the same time provide enough information about the experience just in case someone in the sewing community is planning to make this.  The pattern isn't new, but I don't think there are a lot of reviews online.

Pattern Description:  Misses' jacket in two lengths with front and collar variations.  Closures feature an exposed zipper, hook and eye, or loops and buttons.  Croquis Kit included with each Project Runway pattern allows you to be your own designer.   This is OOP, but you can find a copy of it on Etsy.

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern comes in sizes 6 to 22.   I used size 16 with a lot of modifications beginning with the view.  I really liked the view in the lower righthand corner with the pleated pocket and side back.  But I wanted the length of the red jacket that the model is wearing.  So that is what I decided to make.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  For the most part. my jacket does look like the jacket drawing, except it is longer.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical and easy to follow.  I changed a few things.  One being I understitched the facing and along the neckline.  I like the way it slightly rolls the edge to the inside of the jacket.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There are many things that I like about the jacket beginning with the princess seams.  This style always makes it a little easier to do the pattern adjustments for an FBA.  The pleated pockets and side back are also favorite design elements.  They help create a balance between my upper and lower body.  They also add some interest to what could be considered a boring classic princess style jacket. I love the two-piece sleeve in a jacket. They look better and are easier to fit.  The buttonhole loops are on my like list too.  Lastly, I like the draft of this pattern.  Even with all of my fit adjustments, it appears to be well drafted.  

No dislikes.

Fabric Used: I chose a recycled polyester suiting from Minerva Fabrics.  This light/medium weight suiting, sewed up without any problems.  It has a "bubble" texture which adds interest to the feel and look of the jacket.  But it does not make it look heavy.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made my usual adjustments for an FBA, swayback, prominent shoulder blades, and I added length to the sleeve and the jacket itself.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  I must use the pattern again.  I spent so much time making the adjustments.  It would be somewhat of a waste if I didn't make it at least one more time.  And of course, I love how it turned out.  The side front and back have three sections.  For the side front there are also pockets.  When I made the FBA and swayback adjustments they affected all of the pieces associated with the side front and back.  So I was doing a lot of slashing and taping.

I do recommend it to others.  But make a muslin and take the time to make the pattern fit adjustments.  

Conclusion:  I really like how my jacket turned out.  And I'm glad I finally finished it.  In the coming months I hope to get plenty of wear out of it.  It's comfortable and the fit is pretty good.  I like wearing it with jeans and a t-shirt.  But it would be great to wear with a skirt or dress. 

For a sewing project like this, take the time to make sure the fit is good and make a muslin before you cut into your lovely fashion fabric. Wink, wink.

Happy Sewing!


Thursday, March 17, 2022

Anthropologie So Inspired: It's Spring and Summer Dresses

Dresses, dresses, and more dresses!

It's time for a little dress inspiration.  Spring is already here, and summer is around the corner.  I'm itching to make a pretty dress.  Before I start planning what fabric, style, and color I wanted to see what RTW styles are on the horizon.  Anthropologie has a great selection of the season's best spring and summer looks.  From their posted inventory, I see an entire caribbean vacation wardrobe.  They have beautiful florals, abstract prints and solids of every style and for every shape.  Below are some of the dresses I'd like to have.  But you can take a look at the entire collection that is posted online here.    

Happy Sewing!



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