Notes on a Pattern McCall's M7978 - Blouse

 

Here's another project that is in the works.  I've wanted to make this top for a few years now.  Early April, I made a muslin.  And over two years ago, I did the tissue paper fit adjustments.  Sometimes I start and stop, start and stop, working on a project.  But this time, I hope to finish this one with a very nice blouse that fits well.  I wonder how many of us do that. Lol.

Anyway, this Notes on a Pattern details the fit adjustments.  My hope is that the information is useful to other sewists with the same/similar fit adjustments.  

To begin, let me start with the design/style of the blouse.  I think it is a good silhouette for me.  The "V" neckline is great for my inverted triangle shape.  The midriff gives me a little more definition at the waist and the ever so slightly flounce helps with the lack of noticeable hips.  So I think it's good for me.

A, B, C, D tops have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band. B: Flounce. A, B, C: Cuffs. D: Sleeve band, neck band and ties in one.  The pattern comes in sizing groupings (6-14) and (14-22).  I used size 16 with modifications, of choice.

Most of my likes about this pattern is related to how it will help enhance my figure.  I also like the gathers and the fullness of the long sleeve view.  Additionally, it is a pretty easy blouse to sew, and there are no difficult constructions steps that I see.

The photos and drawing are true to the pattern.  So there are no concerns there.

Now, let's get to the fit adjustments.  I'll start with the full bust adjustment the front, a surplus bodice.  For the surplus bodice, I simply slashed and spread the appropriate amount for me.  To do so, I had to determine the needed amount of width and length being careful not to create too much fullness to gather under the bust.  I really didn't need to add any width to the front midriff pattern pieces.  

Next, for the upper back, I added a little length to balance it out with the front bodice.  The lower back midriff pieces, I did a sway back adjustment to remove additional fabric to pool at the lower back area, then adding the length at the bottom to balance out the hemline.

The last thing I adjusted was the neck band and the tie.  For this pattern piece, I needed to add some length to the neckband part only, slightly less than what I added to the front bodice.  Less to reduce the chance of gapping at the fullness of the bust.  The difference in the front bodice can be eased in.  See neck band/tie photo slash above the tie section of the pattern piece.

As for the sleeve length, I wasn't too concerned about making that adjustment for the muslin.  Most of the time it's a matter of adding an inch in the lower half of the sleeve.  Easy.

So, this is it for the Note on a Pattern for McCall M7978.  Now, I need to get to work on the actual blouse.

More later.  Stay tuned.

Happy Sewing,
C

Easy, Breezy Summer Dress - Simplicity S8735 and Simplicity S8637

There is nothing like a floaty, breezy summer dress.  This one has been in the making for two years.  Last week I finally finished it, and I am glad I did. 

 

Here again, I decided to use two different patterns to come up with the style that I wanted.  I used Simplicity S8735 for the bodice and Simplicity S8637 for the skirt and the flounce sleeve.  

I decided to use S8735 because it included different patterns for the cup sizes.  So all I needed to do was select my cup size and tweak it a little bit.  For the skirt, it was very easy.  No serious fit adjustments; just a little tweaking.  I used size 16 for both.  Both patterns are over six years old.  But they may be still in print. 

 

Because the bodice of S8735 is above the waist, my dress also sits above the waist.  That's something that you need to pay attention to if you're splicing patterns together.  

What I like about my new dress is:

• The wrap - I love a wrap dress.  Perfect for my body shape.
• Princess seam - easy to make fit adjustments.  In this case, having the different cup sizes made it even easier.
• The flounce on the skirt - Who doesn't love a full skirt dress. 
• The flounce of the sleeve - I wanted to try something a little different.  This is a cute style design.

No dislikes.

The fabric is from Mood Fabrics.  They may not have it in stock.  It's been in my collection for at least 4 years.  But I’m sure they have similar cottons that would look great in a summer dress.

 

I'll wear this fit and flare beauty as soon as an opportunity presents itself.

 

More sewing projects to come.  So stay tuned!

 

Happy Sewing,

C

Another Comfy Outfit with Vogue V1914 Tunic and Vogue V1929 Pants

This week I'm continuing with posts of projects completed.  It real really good to be back at sewing on a regular basis.  I wanted to wait to post this review with photos of me wearing it instead of having it on my dress form.  Is it me?  Many times I feel the dress form gives a poor representation of how the garment actually looks.  Or maybe I just need to breakdown and buy one of the professional dress form to drape my new outfits on.

Anyway, today’s post is another comfy outfit that I made using Vogue V1914 and V1929.  I'll begin with the tunic.  This is the very first time I used this pattern.  I bought it because of the top-view B.  So here goes with the pattern review.

Tunic

Pattern Description:   Slim fit V-neck cardigan has button front, and neckline facings.  Loose-fitting asymmetric tunic has long sleeves, uneven hemline, and stitched hems.  Wide leg pull-on pants have elastic waist with drawstring, self-tie, and stitched hems.  

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern comes in two size groupings (XS - M) and (L-XXL).  I used large with small modifications.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were easy to follow.  This tunic didn't go together like a typical knit top with front, back, and sleeve. The design lines change the way the a typical top would be sewn together.  So, it is very important to transfer all markings and to follow the construction process as indicated in the guide sheet.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the design lines:  the slight drape at the neckline and the back side drape, the uneven hemline, and the different sleeve design.  These elements make this tunic unique.  My dislike is the dropped shoulder seam.  I like the standard shoulder seam line because it looks the best on my broad shoulders.

Fabric Used: The fabric was purchased at New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.  It is a lightweight ribbed knit that has a lot of drape and stretch.  

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  This is my wearable muslin.  Because of the many directions and sections to form the tunic, I opted not to try to make any fit adjustments.  Besides I didn't know how it would come together.  So once I had the tunic sewn together, enough to try on, I was able to see how and where adjustments could be made.  Surprisingly, I only needed to slim down the sides and the sleeves so it would not look floppy.  Also, one sleeve was slightly longer than the other.  Across the shoulder and bust area, the fit was good.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I may sew it one more time.  Yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: This is an interesting tunic with unique style lines.  I enjoyed making it and will enjoy wearing it.  It is worth a try.  

 

Next is my review of the pants

Pattern Description: Top and dress are loose-fitting through bust and have asymmetric off-the-shoulder necklines.  Both top and dress include extra-long sleeves with thumbhole cuffs and stitched hems.  Below-waist pull-on pants have elasticized waist and stitched hem.

 Pattern Sizing:  This pattern also comes in two size groupings (8-16) and (18-26).  I used size 16 with small modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Pretty much.  I added a waistband casing for the elastic.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were typical and very easy to follow.  The pants sewed up like pajama pants.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked this style of pant (flared leg) better than the drawstring pants included in V1914.  My dislike was that the finished waist fell below the waistline.

Fabric Used:  Medium weight knit from New Rainbow Fabrics.  Nice weight and texture.  And no issues sewing it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made two changes:  lengthen the pant leg and added a waistband casing for the elastic.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I could use a few more pairs of pull-on pants using this pattern.  And yes I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: These pants were very easy to sew much like the dress that I already made twice.  I love how the pants turned out.  I will get a lot of wear out of them.

 

Happy Sewing!

C

 

Many Sewing Projects All At Once

Good morning Sewing Friends,

I wanted to post a short update on the many projects that I am currently working on.  During the past few months, most of my sewing time has been on pattern fit adjustments and making muslins to check the fit to make sure it's good.  Often I do several fit adjustments at the same time.  Then once everything is good, I move to the next step of making the actual garments.

Today, I'm posting a few of the muslins that I've completed.  My hope is to post a "Note on a Pattern" and make the garment.  So, here is a preview of some of my upcoming projects.  

McCall M7978 - Blouse

Butterick B6915

Simplicity S9783

Vogue Dress V1929 - I Made Two

This is almost an all photo post.  It's took my awhile to get pictures, even though I've worn both dresses.  More the ever, my focus is on the event or activity vs. taking pictures of my wearing a new make.  Within a week I made a second dress.  This version is exactly the same as the first.  So here goes pictures of my wearing Vogue V1929.