Finding the Right Slack - McCalls 5710 - Part II

I used the guidelines described in Threads magazine article: "Adjusting Pants from Waist to Seat" to make some of the needed adjustments to fit McCalls 5710.


First, I reduce the length of the back crotch by 1/2 inch. Then I removed 5/8 inch from the center back seam to increase the body space.



Next I added 5/8 inch to the side seam to compensate for the decrease in width.


The front crotch length was decreased by 1 inch. Above are the two pattern pieces side by side to show the body space area. Note the back piece is about 2 inches longer than the front. This compensate for the curve of the buttock and the sway back. Imagine the back pattern piece having flexibility to curve slightly as a sway back would.

Additional adjustments made:

Sway back adjustment of Back Yoke

and

Length the pants by 4 inches.

Stay Tuned! Finished pants post is next.
Happy Sewing!

Pants - Finding the Best Fit - Part I

Sewing has been an art practiced, shared and loved by many women in my family. My grandmother (father) sewed everything from drapes to coats to men's suits. The women on my mother's side garment sew too, but were especially keen on quiting. I started making Barbie doll clothes at age 10 and later started garment sewing at 12. The initial draw to garment sewing was out of necessarity because I was, back then, long, flat, and very thin. Everything RTW that was long enough looked like it was on a hanger. Two of my biggest challenges were understanding how to digest the pattern instructions and translate that understanding into a finished wearable garment using a sewing machine. In those days I had lots of help at arms length when I got stuck on a process. Thus, the start of my sewing journey.

In my early days of sewing, I only had to length sleeves, skirts, and pants. Today I am still long, but curvy, and thicker. As I mature, the uniqueness of my frame becomes more pronounced. Now, with each garment, there are adjustments to make it fit.

In August, I started inventorying my fall wardrobe trying to determine what I needed most. And that is pants. About half of what I own need some type of repair or are too worn period (clothes don't hold up as well as they used to). Because I wear them more in fall and winter, I decided to push a few pairs to the top of the list. But first the fit...,

Threads (January 2006) magazine published an article, "Adjusting Pants for Waist to Seat". This was an answer to my prays. My challenge has been sway back and adjusting the crotch area to the proper length to balance the front and back. This article considered the body space along with the length and curve of it. Perfect. From January 2006 to now I have used these guidelines to achieve a better fitting pants.

Tip-Toe Through the Tulips Cadena Mode - Fall 2008

The Cadena Mode Fall 2008 issue is just as beautiful as the previous issues that I own. This is a great fashion magazine. In this issue, Cadena is featuring florals, interesting embellishments, unique silhouettes, the color palette ranging from bold brights to soft neutrals hues. There is something for everyone: classic designs to the latest trendy chic Runway styles.

One of my favorite design elements of this issue is the Tulip. This design is featured in day wear and in eye-catching evening attire.








This Evening Gown - Is not a Tulip, but the skirt imitates flower petals.



Cadena is published in the Spring and Fall and can be purchase at Fishman's Fabric (Desplaines and Roosevelt-Chicago). I've already reserved my copy of the Spring 2009 issue.

All photos from Cadena Mode Fall 2008 magazine.

Online Quiz

This is a fun online quiz that Bonnie posted on her blog. So I decided to give it a try. My results are below.

Quiz

Your result for Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? Or Someone Else? Mad Men-era Female Icon Quiz...

You Are a Grace!

You are a Grace -- "I need to understand the world."

Graces have a need for knowledge and are introverted, curious, analytical, and insightful.

How to Get Along with Me

• * Be independent, not clingy


• * Speak in a straightforward and brief manner


• * I need time alone to process my feelings and thoughts


• * Remember that If I seem aloof, distant, or arrogant, it may be that I am feeling uncomfortable


• * Make me feel welcome, but not too intensely, or I might doubt your sincerity


• * If I become irritated when I have to repeat things, it may be because it was such an effort to get my thoughts out in the first place


• * don't come on like a bulldozer


• * Help me to avoid my pet peeves: big parties, other people's loud music, overdone emotions, and intrusions on my privacy

What I Like About Being a Grace
* standing back and viewing life objectively
* coming to a thorough understanding; perceiving causes and effects
* my sense of integrity: doing what I think is right and not being influenced by social pressure
* not being caught up in material possessions and status
* being calm in a crisis

What's Hard About Being a Grace

• * being slow to put my knowledge and insights out in the world


• * feeling bad when I act defensive or like a know-it-all


• * being pressured to be with people when I don't want to be


• * watching others with better social skills, but less intelligence or technical skill, do better professionally

Graces as Children Often

• * spend a lot of time alone reading, making collections, and so on


• * have a few special friends rather than many


• * are very bright and curious and do well in school


• * have independent minds and often question their parents and teachers


• * watch events from a detached point of view, gathering information


• * assume a poker face in order not to look afraid


• * are sensitive; avoid interpersonal conflict


• * feel intruded upon and controlled and/or ignored and neglected

Graces as Parents

• * are often kind, perceptive, and devoted


• * are sometimes authoritarian and demanding


• * may expect more intellectual achievement than is developmentally appropriate


• * may be intolerant of their children expressing strong emotions

Take Are You a Jackie or a Marilyn? Or Someone Else? Mad Men-era Female Icon Quiz at HelloQuizzy

Burda October 2008 - The Luxury Look

The faux fur jackets are too fabulous. My favorite is the black jacket with the wool sleeves. I think I want to make one of these.





Burda also features several garments in graphic colorful prints made up in silk and satin fabrics.



I like the cut on this jacket.



There is something for everyone is this issue. For the special man in your life. This is a great pea jacket in classic navy. Nice...,

The Cutest Little Top - Butterick 4985

Butterick 4985




Let me start off by saying, "This is a great pattern. It has been reviewed on PR at least fifteen times." And I will definitely make this again. The only reason I'm reviewing it is my alterations may assist someone with making their own version of this top. It's a winner. Did I just give the conclusion? Oh well. Here goes.

Pattern Description: Tops A, B, C, D have gathered upper front, lower section with princess seams, sleeve and collar variation. A: stand-up collar and tie, two-piece sleeve. B: gathered sleeve with band and collar with collar band. C, D: gathered sleeve with band and stand-up collar. D: purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 6 to 20. I made size 14 with my usual alterations.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy as 1, 2, 3.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? What's not to like about it. It's feminine, stylish, and flattering. Not to mention, very versatile. Again, no dislike.

Fabric Used: Okay the remnant room at Vogue Fabrics is the first place I go when I shop there. You'd be surprised at the great deals you will find here. everything from silk, to wool, to polyester. This is a polyester silky print fabric that I purchased for under $10.00.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a few: They are:

- FBA. Here's the original paper pattern over the redraft.



Now the two side by side.



- Broad Shoulder/Prominent Shoulder Blades



- Sway Back -- for the sway back adjustment, I added tucks at the lower back of the bodice and increased the seam allowance of the adjoining lower back sections.






- The pattern called for four 5/8" buttons. I used 1/2" buttons from my stash and instead of four I sewed six spaced 1 1/2" apart.



Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Sure will. I plan to add long sleeves to the next version.

Conclusion: It's at the top! ;-)

BWOF May 2008 - 108A The Tulip Skirt

Pattern Description: A tulip skirt, in the true sense of the word. Not only does the silhouette imitate the shape of this flower but the front drapings over the hips and waist also look like the flower petals. BWOF 108A Skirt May 2008

Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 36 - 42.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. The version in the photo had a little more draping around the hip area. But overall it looked like the photo/drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? As stated by many PR reviewer, the burda instructions are not the best. I had a little trouble following the instructions for pleating the skirt. So I studied the pattern and looked at the photo to help guide me through forming the tulip shaping. The rest was fairly simple and standard for assembling a straight skirt with a contour waistband.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I totally love the shaping around the hip area. There is nothing I dislike other than the instructions.

Fabric Used: I purchased this polyester fabric at Vogue Fabrics, remnant room, for the unbelieveable price of $5.23. Just enough to make a skirt.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I only made a few alterations:

- Added 2" to the length.
- Lined the Skirt -- the fabric has a lot of drape to it; the lining adds some body and besides I prefer lined skirts. For the front lining I used the back skirt pattern. The front pattern would add too much fabric across the abdomen. And I certainly don't need that. ;-) There was only one slight mishap with it. I cut it just a little too short.





Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not. The skirt is unique enough that I only want one in my wardrobe. And besides I have hundreds of other skirt patterns to try. But I would recommend it to others. This style of skirt is a fashion trend. I've seen several version of tulip skirts and dresses this year. In particular, the Cadena magazine has at least four outfits with the tulip/floral element.



Conclusion: I really like this pattern and had planned to make this skirt the moment that a saw it in the BWOF.

Designer Quote: "The difference between day and evening clothes is outdated." -Yves Saint Laurent