Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - Selecting Underlining Part II

I decided to underline my garment when I purchased the fabric.  Underlining in some cases provides stability.  But underlining also can play other roles in a garment depending on the effect you want to achieve.  You have to consider what you want the underlining area to do:  drape, stand up, or fold.  For a fitted, boned bodice your may use flannel to camouflage and muslin for strength.  Silk organza would be perfect to add lightweight support in a skirt or sheath dress.

For my Summer Dress, I decided to use silk organza because it's stable and easy to work with.  It's a perfect match for silk dupioni. In any case, you want to cast the correct underlining.  Here are some options to consider:

Lofty - single or double faced cotton flannel camouflages construction details.
Heavy - Cotton broadcloth, muslin, crinoline, and twill offer firm support.
Drapey: Silk crepe de chine and rayon maintain movement.
Light - Silk chiffon is gentle; silk organza, crisp.  Cotton voile or cotton batiste add soft support.

Pretreat your fabrics.  Steam the fashion fabric and wash any cotton underlining in hot water.  Do not wash silk organza; it won't shrink.

Fabric and Underlining Combinations -

Silk Chiffon and Silk Chiffon Underlining
Linen-Silk Blend and Muslin Underlining
Four-Ply Silk Crepe and Silk Crepe De Chine Underlining
Silk Dupioni and Silk Organza Underlining
Wool Crepe and Silk Organza Underlining

That it for the installment. Next Marking the inner layer and Aligning the underlining and fabric.

Happy Sewing!
C

The Haute Couture Club Luncheon at the Chicago Yacht Club

All the sewing ladies converged in the Chicago Yacht Club for their annual luncheon. The June Luncheon parts the close of our year. We will not meet again until September. The luncheon event includes the announcement of the new officers, fall challenges, fashion committee and the theme.

The is my second year as a member and it's still fun. The atmosphere is festive. There is continuous chatter and jiggles throughout the room. No uncomfortable silences; everyone is gay.

It was quite sunny and very HOT in Chicago on Saturday afternoon. It must have been about 95 degrees; humidity about 67 percent. HOT.., It was good to be in a place that wasn't too warm or too cold. Our hostess for the luncheon was Jane Vartan. I believe her husband is a member of the Chicago Yacht Club. And because of his membership we were are to have our annual event at the club. Thank you Jane. It was wonderful.

So not to be too chatty, here are the pictures from the luncheon.

Marty Moser, Club President.  She is holding a piece of the candy that Jane made for us.

My girls.

Carol Scott, Fashion Show Committee 2011

Debbie, Mary and Sandy (Fashion Show 2011)

These lovely ladies made their sheath dresses during the Helen Haughey workshop.  Beautiful craftsmanship.

Kathy M. designed and sewed this beautiful silk jacket.

Ms. Evans is so delightful. It's always good to see her.  She is sporting a jacket made by her daughter Francine D.

The Fashion Show 2012 committee taking the Oath.

Rhonda B. will head the Fashion Show Committee 2012

V1097 is the November group challenge.  The club members are to use this pattern to create their one of a kind coat or jacket.

More pictures can be found here.

Happy Sewing!
C

M5974- What I Wore to the Fashion Show

M5974

Pattern Description: MISSES' AND WOMEN'S DRESSES: Dresses A, B, C, D have bodice variations with front pleats, neckline variations, self-faced midriff, pleated skirt front, back zipper and sleeves in three lengths; dresses A, B have scoop neck; dress A has short sleeves; dress B has long sleeves; dresses C, D have wrapped bodice, “V” neck and self-ties; dress C has three-quarter length sleeves; dress D has long sleeves; dresses A, B, C, D length is 1" below mid-knee.

Pattern Sizing: 8 -24W.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the "V" neck, the tie, and the full skirt. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: Jersey knit (Vogue Fabrics - I shop there a lot.)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I need a FBA, prominent shoulder blade and sway back adjustments. Also added a few inches to the skirt and about an inch to the sleeve.

NOTE - I cut this dress at size 16. Palmer Pletsch side seam allowance is 1". I sewed at least 1 1/2 side seams. The dress was still a little big through the shoulder to the hip. It may be a combination of the stretch in the knit and sizing. I could have easily made the size 14. Wearing it, I noticed the shoulder seam was about a 1/4 inch too long. The belt is a little too short for me. Next time I'll add a few inches to it.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes and yes.


Conclusion: Nice mock wrap dress. A beginner can sew this dress with no problems.

V1250 - The Easiest Dress Ever

Vogue 1250

Pattern Description: MISSES' DRESS: Close-fitting dress.

Pattern Sizing: 6-20; I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? A piece of cake. This pattern only had three pieces. Simple: 1, 2, 3 and it's done.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It was easy, attractive, and sewed together in two hours. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: Jersey knit; I think rayon from the remnant room at Vogue for about $10.00.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added two inches to the length. Instead of machine sewing the hem of the sleeves, I hand stitched them. It was easier to control the fabric. I added stitch witchery to the hem of the dress to help control the movement of the fabric as it passed through the needle path.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? YES, and YES. Carolyn is my enabler. Lol After reading her post about her third dress, I couldn't resist. My next version, I will tweak it just a little. At the small of my back it stands away from my body. I want it to lay closer to me.

Conclusion: This is a great dress that is super easy and super cute. It's sews together within two hours time. Love it.

V1205 - Lady in Red

Pattern Description: Misses' Dress, Close fitting, tapered, above mid-knee, lined dresses. A, B have front gathers, shaped seams, back darts, back invisible zipper and back vent. A: gathered, contrast upper left front.

Pattern Sizing: 8-22. I made size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? No problems and nothing confusing about them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Everything. The style and fit. I even liked that this pattern had a back facing that attached to the lining. No to dislike. This is a great dress.


Fabric Used: Moderate knit from Joann's (red), Contrast animal print from Hancock. BTW- It's swim suit fabric. Imagine that. It's perfect for the contrast.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did my usual FBA, prominent shoulder blades and lengthen it a few inches. For the contrast, I made the lining from the same fabric instead of the tricot lining. I liked it better.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Not for myself. My sister wants one. I do recommend it to others. It's a super cute dress that sews together with no problem.


Conclusion:

I love, love this dress. It easy dress to sew with great results.

Alvin Ailey Dance Troop - Chicago May 2011

On May 21st I had the pleasure of going to see the Alvin Ailey Dance Troop at the Auditorium Theater. It was great!

Me holding the program.

The photo below is from Revelation which was danced at the climax of the show. Wonderful, wonderful.

After the show we floated over to Amarit for dinner. The tasty food was well presented.

We started with the cucumber salad.

Then some delicious Thai fried rice (chicken).

To finish, A crying Tiger (grilled steak). That sauce on the side makes for a very tasty steak.  So if you are in Chicago, stop by Amarit at 600 South Dearborn. The food is good and the atmosphere is pleasant.

Happy weekend everyone! Saturday (June 4th) Is the Haute Couture Club annual spring Luncheon. Stay Tuned.

Cennetta

Summer Dress Challenge 2011 - NL 6824

Finally, I decided on the dress I will make for the Summer Dress Challenge 2011. The challenge is from June 1st through the 15th. I'm using silk dupioni (Fishman's), silk organza and cotton muslin (New Rainbow) to make the pink view with scoop neckline (NL6824). This will be the forth time around for this pattern.

As part of the goodie bag (PR Weekend in Chicago), I received the May issue of Threads magazine. It's loaded with techniques and tutorials that will help improve sewing skills. Susan Khalje's article on underlining gave me a whole new prospective on underlining garments. I'll incorporate some of her principles into this garment.

This, of course, will be one of many posts about my experience. I hope it's interesting and helpful to you. Thirteen days to go. Hmmm.., We will see how it goes. No doubt I will finish the dress. By the deadline, that's questionable. Lol

Happy Sewing,
C