Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Another Chapter In The Jean Pool - M5515

First I want to start out by saying this is a loonnnng review. I made several changes and want to include some quick, pro, and sew tips. I'm hoping this review will help other sewists with making jeans.

I started a series, June 2009, on making jeans to document and set some standards for myself for making jeans for myself and DD. Last spring while admiring the many, many patterns I own, I rediscovered a Palmer & Pletsch jean pattern c1981. I used this pattern, back in the day, to make jeans for my mom. As I started to read all of the tidbits in the instructions, I realized this pattern contained a treasure trove of tips that many would like to have. So on that note, let me get started with the review.

Pattern Description: MISSES’ LINED JACKET AND PANTS: Fitted, lined, above hipline jacket with flounce has separating zipper and pockets with band and zipper, princess seams, standing collar, two-piece sleeves with cuffs; jacket A has contrast bands, cuffs and collar; pants C with side slant pockets, below waistline contour waistband and mock fly zipper opening.

Pattern Sizing: 4- 16. I used size 14 with several modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The design lines looked pretty much like the pattern cover photo. There were a few details that I omitted and/or changed.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There was nothing difficult or confusing about the instructions or construction of the outfit.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I particularly liked the design of the jacket: the peplum and the pockets with zippers. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used: I used an apple green demin that my Dad gave me several years ago. For the lining, I used a floral cottonthat's been in my stash for over 15 years. Originally bought to make DD (little DD) a blouse. Both were pre-washed and dried on hot to pre-shrink the fabric.

The suggested fabric for the jacket is faux leather or suede. Of course I used demin for jacket and pants.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

Jacket -

I did a FBA to the front jacket pattern pieces. The jacket calls for a 16 inch zipper, because of the FBA I had to install a 18 inch zipper.

I didn't use the front band or the pocket band. If I had used faux leather or suede I would have. But for the demin I skipped it.

There is a lot of top stitching in the construction of the jacket. I omitted the top-stitching at the shoulder seam. Not on purpose; I simply forgot about it. When I realized I had omitted it, the jacket was finished.

I omitted the button on the cuff.

The peplum wasn't as long as I thought it should be.

Back of jacket showing overlap of peplum. There should have been a little more over lap at the center back. Additionally, I ease the bottom of jacket to fit the peplum.

Inside sleeve cuff didn't have enough fabric to make the inside. So I used the lining fabric for it.

Pro Tip - When pressing, roll seam slightly toward facing side so it won't show.

Pants -

The pants pattern included is really not a jean pattern, but I made changing to incorporate the stylings in a pair of jeans by:

Adding pockets to the back pants and following some construction method in the M7555 instruction sheets.

Back pocket sewn to back pant.

Sew Tip - Know your presser Foot - It makes top-stitching easy! Measure the presser foot. Most are 1/4" 6mm, from needle to outside edge. Most top-stitching is done 1/4" 6mm from the edge, so the edge of the foot is your guide. If your presser foot measures 3/8" 1cm stitch 3/8" from the edge.

Sew Tip - Stitch row closest to edge first, then using presser foot as a guide, stitch the second row 1/4" 6mm away.

Quick Tip - Instead of breaking stitching who you edge stitch and then top stitch, make the row of edge-stitching then pivot and stitch across; pivot again and top-stitch to complete the second round of stitching.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'm not sure if I'll sew this particular pattern again. I have so many pattern to try. But I will follow some of the techniques: adding zippers to pockets (first time) and instructions on sewing synthetic suede and leather. I would recommend trying this pattern to others if you have it. It's out of print.

Conclusion: I like the grean jean outfit. Am glad I was able to finish it before the end of summer. The pattern is not different, but requires a little patience with the top-stitching, pockets, lining, and facings.

My flickr set on the makings of this outfit.


  1. Nice outfit, it looks great on you. Your top stitching looks really nice. And thanks for the sewing tips, I'm sure they'll come in handy

  2. The whole outfit turned out really well. The lining is nice.

  3. The colour is gorgeous on you. It's a really stylish outfit and I think there are many colours you can wear with it. Thanks for all the tips, as well.

  4. Wow. You skills are impeccable. This is fabulous!

  5. That is a wonderful jacket/pant ensemble. Love that color. It looks like it is a really good fit. Very nice.

  6. This outfit is such a winner. Well constructed and strong sense of style. Love the colour.

  7. You look fantastic in that outfit! Thanks for all the details.

  8. Beautiful, beutiful beautiful.Thanks for sharing those tips. Very fabulous outfit

  9. Wow - you have made some outfits with fabulous color recently. First the tangerine dress and now this one. I love the fact that the jacket is not a typical jean jacket style or color. It is much more interesting and sophisticated. I also love those shoes you wore with the tangerine dress!

  10. I love your jacket and jeans. I just realized I have this jacket pattern. I was going to make it in leather, but ended up not having enough. It looks great in the denim, though the color is a turquoise on my computer screen, not apple green

  11. Thanks everyone! Audrey - the is off on my monitor as well. I guess to better distribed it it's between a apple green and kelly green.

  12. You did a greatttt job on the outfit. The color is awesome and its a change from the boring blue denim.



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