Butterick B5429 - Knit Top The Second Try

 

I had enough fabric leftover from the Sandra Betzina ruched top.  So I decided to use the remnant to make this Butterick twist yoke top. This was one of my late March quarantine sewing projects. This was I relatively easy top to make.  The twist construction was a little different from the more recent Big four pattern instructions.

This was my second attempt to make this top. Years ago when I first purchased this pattern, I tried the top and it just didn't turned out right, a wadder.  I think it was the fabric though.

Anyway

Butterick Pattern Description: Misses'/Misses' Petite coat, top, skirt and pants.  Coat A is loose-fitting, lined with patch pockets and dropped shoulders.  Tops B, C are close fitting with front neckline twist, dropped shoulders and stitched hems.  B sleeveless C; long sleeves.  Straight skirt D has fron and back darts, back zipper and waistline facing, length is 2" above mid-knee.  Pants E have straight legs , fron and back darts, mock fly front, side seam pockets and waistband.

That is one long pattern description. 

Pattern Sizing:  Group pattern sizes (8-14) and (16-22).  I used the 14 with modifications and a little grading up the size.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Pretty much.  It could be a little more close fitting.  That's an easy adjustment.


Were the instructions easy to follow?  Typical and easy.  Nothing confusing.  With the twist, you just have to take your time.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I liked the twist.  I'm always looking for comfortable, simple knit tops with a "twist".   No dislikes.


Fabric Used:  I used Mood's Shaded Spruce, Baleine Blue and White Abstract Printed Polyester Jersey knit.  Unfortunately, it's sold out.  Here's the other top that I made in January.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I graded the pattern up and mini FBA, prominent shoulder blade, and swayback adjustments.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes and yes.  This is a good staple.  You can dress it up or down, down to lounge wear.  I recommend it to all level sewists if you have the pattern.  It's out of print (c 2009).


This was another quick and easy top.  Perfect for using up remnants.  I will definitely make a few more.  Good pattern for beginners.  A little twist to a basic t-shirt like pattern.

Parting Shot:   Reading or listening suggestion - "The Hiding Place" by Corrie Ten Boom

Happy Sewing!
C

Summer Dresses In The Making - Butterick B6674

This fabric is a Mood Exclusive Abstract Concepts Stretch Cotton.  What drew me to it was the delicate outline of printed faces.  I'd seen similar prints but would not seen them in a fabric store.  So this one was just right for me.  It's 97% cotton; 3% Elastane.  The fabric has a slight sheen to it with a smooth hand.  Easy sewing and pressing helps speed up the construction process.  I used a universal sewing machine needle, size 12.

I it with Butterick B6674 which includes separate pattern pieces for cup sizes.  A plus and is helpful to me.  Because it decreases the amount a time I spent making pattern adjustments.  The FBA is the most involved adjustment I made.  Butterick pattern description: " A, B, C close fitting through bust, front self facings, sash, flared hem. A: Above mid knee length. B, C: Below mid knee length. C: Self ruffle. A/B, C, D Cup Sizes. D: Lined bag, bias tape seam finish. Note: Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D."  I used size 16 with some modifications.

This was the first garment that I made while in quarantine. I spent two days making this dress.  The first, finishing everything except the buttonholes, buttons, and hem.

This is a very simple skirt waist dress.  Another example of a fit and flare style.  This style is very appealing to me.  And I hope to make more similar dresses this year.  The ruffled neckline adds a little more interest to a simple silhouette and no pockets because the print was enough of an attraction.  So view C was perfect for my project.

My dress does look like the drawing, except I did not make a belt.  I have a RTW belt that would be perfect for the dress.  The instructions were typical but very easy to follow.  No part of the dress requires interfacing.  In general, a very quick sew.

Before I cut into my fashion fabric, I made a muslin.  I actually made it last summer.  So I tried it on again to make sure the fit was still okay.  It was good.  My usual pattern adjustments were also made last year.  So I checked them again since I hadn't looked at this pattern in awhile.

My fit changes:

• Tweaked the D cup bodice pattern to fit.
• Lengthen the bodice a bit
• Swayback adjustment
• Prominent shoulder blade at the shoulder seam, which produced a little dart.  I should have made it along the neckline.  I think it would look better. Next time.
• Added a bit to the bodice back a the shoulder seam for my forward shoulders.
• Lengthen the skirt a bit

My construction changes:

• The fabric was too thick to follow the construction of the ruffle.  I decided to use Mood Italian Black Venise Lace trim .   I cut the lace the length of the ruffle.  Then I cut a piece of 1/4" black elastic the length of the finished neckline.  Stretched and sewed the elastic to the lace.  Then I sewed the trim to the neckline of the dress being careful not to stretch it.  NOTE:  A little stretching did occur, but it did not deform the neckline.  It actually helped it lie flat with no gapping.
• For the neckline and armholes, I make bias tape from fashion fabric.
• I used hem tape and hem the dress by hand instead of machine stitching it as instructed.

I am very please with how this dress turned out.  It is a classic silhouette.  And I can see myself making it again.  Next time with pockets and matching bag.  Isn't that tote cute?

This is a relatively easy dress to make once you have gotten past your fit adjustments.  You can also have some fun with trims to change it up a bit.  I recommend this pattern to all level sewists.  Have fun building your summer wardrobe.  Now is the time if you are quarantined or on coronavirus lock down.

Happy Sewing!
C

Bright Orange/White Floral Speaks Summer - B6680

I finished this dress two days before my vacation.  Into the suitcase it went. The bright orange/white with royal blue floral knit was perfect for the sunny days of my Los Cabos vacation.  But I didn't get a chance to wear it!  Grrrgh..., Missed opportunity for a great photo shoot.

No worries.  Summer is coming!  And I'll have plenty of opportunities to wear it here is the States. But today, I wanted to take this opportunity to share my experience of making it.

My fabric comes from Mood Fabrics.  It's labelled Bright Orange White and Royal Blue Floral Printed Lightweight Ponte knit.  It has a smooth hand and has a firm weave with about 30% stretch.  Excellent recovery.  The colors are vibrant and rich.  Great print and color combination; perfect for summer.

The pattern used is Butterick B6680, published last year.  It is described as:  Misses' dress dress A, B, C is close-fitting with side gathers, neck and armhole bands; and slightly flared hem in three lengths.  I made view B below mid-knee length.  The pattern is available is sizes 6 to 22.  I used size 16 with modifications.


Three dress was on my to make list last year, but I didn't get around to making it until now.  I did a little online research to see if others had made it.  This is another pattern that I didn't find many pattern review for.  Only a few tried it, and they did not appear to have the same fit issues that I have.  I must admit, once I started to prep the pattern I wondered if the ruching at the side would be problematic.  Considering my swayback and the little fluff around the middle.

Anyway, I continued on with making a FBA.  Nothing extraordinary.  I just looked passed the curve on the left side where the ruching goes and followed the standard process of making a FBA.  I decided if darts are needed, then I sew them in.

Initial Dart on Right Side Just above the ruching

In the end I tested darts on both sides.   It was perfect on the left side.  But on the right side it didn't look good.  So I plucked out the stitches and extended the ruching through the dart area.  The construction process was to simply add the elastic.  The difference created by the dart needed to be gathered; then sewn together and elasticized.

Final Right Side with No Dart

Final Left Side with Dart

With that little challenge out of the way, my thoughts turned to whether or not this would be a good look for me given my swayback coupled with the ruching.  I did not do a swayback adjustment.  My rationale was it's ruched.  The extra would be ruched.  Anyway, it's a little more ruching then seen in the photograph and drawing, but it a good look.  So my only other fit adjustment was the prominent shoulder blade.

The instructions typical and easy.  Nothing confusing  Aside from my testing and adjusting, the dress went together very quickly.

I like the neck and armhole bands.  They create a very nice finish to the dress.  Godet of the right side and the flounce at the bottom of the dress add interest and flare, which I like as well.

No dislike.

This is a quick and easy dress to make if you don't have the FBA issue to address.  It easy to wear.  A nice casual summer dress that can be worn in the spring with a cardigan or jacket. I don't think I'll make it again, but I do recommend it to others.

Happy Sewing!
C

A Little Sporty Fun with Royal Blue Liverpool Knit - McCall M7873

It's about time for a little fun sporty outfit.  Mood Fabric is well stocked with all types of fabrics and trims that can help make your vision a reality.  For my active wear outfit I chose Mood's reorderable Royal Stretch Liverpool Knit.  There are a total of eight gorgeous colors available, from bright white to mustard yellow to neutral black.  Liverpool knits have a crepey texture with a somewhat dry hand.  The malleable weft-wise stretch and subtle warp-wise give was perfect for this project.

And please don't sleep Mood's online inventory of great trims.  There is a HUGH variety of all types:  stretch, woven, textured, feathered, leather, etc.  So for more interest, I added Mood's Red and Ivory Stretch Grosgrain trim.  Love this stuff.  Both are also regularly stocked at Mood.

I used McCall's M7873, a relatively new pattern made popular by Monica's "Sew Your Own View" sewing challenge several months ago.  I wasn't ready to try the pattern back then, but this summer it was on my short list.  It is described as:  "loose-fitting knit tops feature sleeve, length and fabric variations and cold shoulder detail.  Close-fitting pull-on pants have elasticated waist and leg openings, contrast side panels with no side seams, and side front pockets.   Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment."

The pattern is available in two size groupings:  (XS-M and L-XXL)  I used the large with some modifications.

The technical drawing is spot on.  In my version, I tried the emulate the contrasting fabric with adding the stretch grosgrain.  More on that later.

The instructions were typical with nothing confusing in them.  The top and bottom came together with ease. There was only two design/construction steps that I didn't like; that is, the length for the cold shoulder.  It's too long for my taste.  So on the front of the top, I closed it about 1.5".  I should have made the same adjustment to the back too.  I'll take care of that later. Sometimes I wear the garment to get of feel for the wear and comfort before making my final tweaks, especially with unique style elements. The second one was the neckband.  I actually cut it 1" shorter than the pattern piece.  It's still not close fitting as I would like.

No other dislikes.  A more of my usual adjustments:   lengthen of the pants leg 3" and lengthen the sleeve about 1" ( I didn't need the later.).  I came up with the idea of adding the stretch trim, trying to copy the look of the contrasting fabric.  The stretch trim was easy to apply.  I used stitch witchery to hold it in place while stitching it to the Liverpool knit (no pins).

I'm pleased with the overall project. I can definitely see myself making the pants again, but the top is unique enough for me to only have one in my wardrobe.  This pattern is one that I think almost everyone can wear.  It's easy to make, and you can come up with different fabric combinations to use to make it uniquely yours.

The Liverpool knits are an excellent choice of fabric for the outfit.  I think a rib knit trim would work best for the neckband though.  And of course, Mood has plenty to choose from. 


Parting Shots:  Okay, these last two photos are just for fun!

Happy Sewing!
C

Simplicity 8891 - Warm Beige and Ivory Bengal Striped Stretch Twill

It is my pleasure to final post my first spring dress, made just for me!  Happy to show off Simplicity 8891 dress in Mood's Warm Beige and Ivory Bengal Striped Stretch Twill.  This dress was draped on my form for nearly two weeks before I was able to take a few pictures.

The mid-west has been like a tropical rain forest 80% of the time.  It rained hours before the photo shoot.  So me and my "photographer" raced to location before the next band of torrential wave hit the south suburbs. 

Anyway.., My review:

My fabric is fabulous!  I think by now, everyone knows I'm love a great striped textiles.  So when I saw it online, immediately I ordered four yards not having anything special in mind.  I just wanted to make sure I got some of it before it had a red sold out stamp on it.  Yes, there are 61 yards still available.  The details on the weight, fibers, and possible garment styles are on the website:  Warm Beige and Ivory Bengal Striped Stretch Twill. 

My pattern of choice is Simplicity 8891.  I just had to have it too.  Early May I posted on my blog my pattern notes.  It focuses on the fit adjustments.  The pattern also includes pants, shorts, and a top.  It's a simple wardrobe pattern that you can create a great little summer mini wardrobe from.  And I will probably make the top and pants too.  When I was finishing up my dress, I saw that Erica B had made the top and short.  It's a super cute outfit. Check it out on her blog if you haven't already.   I think we are the first to post outfits made using this new Simplicity pattern.

I started with size 16 modifying the tissue pattern, adjustments continuing as I constructed the dress. The sewing was very easy and steady. I practically finished the dress in one sewing session.   The instructions were typical.  No problems in them.

My dress looks much like the photographed dress on the envelope.  I only made minor changes that probably will go unnoticed. They are:

• Placement of the buttons.  At the waist I added two close together.  The rest are evenly spaced as I desired.  So I didn't use the button guide at all.
• On the shoulder, I added a little tiny dart where I added width for my prominent shoulder blades.  Initially, I thought maybe I'll ease in the excess.  But truth be told, I don't really like the effect of easing at the shoulder.
• I added a few inches to the length of the belt.

My likes:

• Button Front
• Pleating at the waist
• Lower band at the hem
• Sleeve finishing

My dislikes:

• The neck is a little wider than I like for this style.
• Pocket placement is a little high

I've added the top and pants to my ever growing "Things to Make" list.  This is a super cute summer mini wardrobe pattern that I think fellow sewists will enjoy making and wearing.  Let's not forget to grab a few yards of this lovely Bengal Striped Stretch Twill.  I still have 1.5 yards to make something else. ;-)

Happy Sewing!

C

First Quarter 2019 - In Review

Late to publication:  I wrote this April 24, 2019.  Posted April 29, 2019  Warning Long Post

We are 24 days into the second quarter of the year.  It's spring and I like many others in the mid-west are relieved that the sun is shining more, the temperatures are warmer, and the days are longer.  All of these signs of spring motivate me to be more productive.  One of the things that I've wanted to start to do is post a quarterly review of my sewing projects.  This is a practice that I used to do when I was working at the university.  It kept me on task with my goals for the year.  It also help me highlight milestones accomplished rather than waiting until the end of the year to review the status of set goals.  In my sewing, this will help me catalog my sewing projects and help me focus on accomplishing more of my annual goals.  So, I'll note garment types, fabric used, and construction techniques practiced in one simple quarterly post.

Sometimes, for whatever reason, some projects never get posted to the blog.  They somehow get lost in the shuffle of my day-to-day routine of thinking about sewing rather than be able to do something sewing related.  So these quarterly posts will if nothing more give mention to ALL makes good, bad, and given away.

So it begins:

January - Wardrobe Building Month:  I wanted to beef up my staples, and I wanted to make comfortable easy to wear knit garments.  My focus was on quick and easy pieces that sewed up really fast, but also had some cute style elements.

• Simplicity 8643 - Pleated Front t-shirt.  It's a great alternative to a basic t-shirt.  Luckily I was able to make it without doing a FBA.  Fabric Marcy Tilton  2 yards

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top Travel Trio 2 - Simple, cute, and easy. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards

• McCall 7812 Drawstring front top - I wanted a new style.  This pattern fit the bill.  First, I made a "red wearable muslin" that I decided to gift someone.  The second one is perfect. Fabricmart Fabrics 1.5 yards for each.

• Christine Jonson Center Seam Pullon Pants - I love these pants.  I made a black and a chartreuse pair.  Two pair made using a total of 4 yards from Mood Fabrics

     Not Posted -

• McCall 7688 - Drawstring knit dress.  I didn't like it on me.  So I'm gifting it to my sister.  Will post later.  Mood Fabrics, 2 yards
• PaperCut Oh-la-la Leggings.  Sorry, I didn't post these yet.  Later with a new top. Mood Fabrics, 2 yards

February - Another month of easy, quick garments.  I needed some new t-shirt dresses to replace the worn ones.  These dresses took less than three hours to sew.  I also made a quilted jacket.  Something a little different from my usual sewing garments for myself.  This jacket was a UFO, cut and ready to sew over a year ago.  I added a lining for the front, back and sleeves.  February I ended with only three garments made, but each is unique in it's own right.  Be it color, style or fabric texture.

• Christine Jonson Funnel Neck Top and M7386 skirt - dress hack - This was a simple blending of two easy patterns that produced a cute little black flirty dress.    Fabric Mood Fabrics 3 yards

• Vogue 1314, my TNT t-shirt dress.  This one I changed up a bit.  Using the pattern lining front and back, I lengthen the dress, added slits to the sides, and finished the look with a thin belt. 2 yards

• M7254 - Cardigan/Jacket.  This one had been waiting in a box for about two years.  Already cut and ready.  What was I waiting for.  It turned out to be a winner.  Fabric from Mood and Vogue Fabrics about 3 yards

March - For the final month of the quarter, I decided to make two coats.  This coat pattern had been on my to make list for awhile.  The sewing techniques that I'm hoping to major are: welt pockets and attaching the lining to the coat to emulate the techniques seen in ready to wear coat.

• Burda 6462 - Long belted boyfriend coat.  Special sewing techniques bound buttonholes and fully lined and attached at the hem of the coat.

• Burda 6462 - Short fur collared boyfriend coat.  This is my favorite of the two.