Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7445 Pants

Hi everyone,

Today I'd like to share my fitting and sewing experience with McCall's M7445.    This a Melissa Watson for Palmer/Pletsch pattern. The guidesheet includes fitting recommendations and the pattern has the alteration or adjustment lines drawn on the pattern pieces.  These additions are helpful and save some time on preparation for adjustments.

Because I've made my "usual" adjustments so many times and, for the most part, found what works for me, I only glossed over the instructions.  But for this post, I decided to read fit recommendations to see if there were any helpful tips, and there were.  Especially if you are having trouble with fitting your pants.  Below are a few suggestions:

• Read pages 2 and 3 to fit your bottom half
• Prepare tissue for a "tissue fit" of the pants
• Fit the crotch area by pulling the pattern close to the your body (crotch area to make assessments on changes needed.
• Note pulls, gaps and sags in the pattern, follow the recommended adjustments.  You may have to tweak a little more in the fabric muslin or pant.

Some of you may have the same fit issues as I do, and you may want to consider these changes:

• Shorter front crotch - I pulled up the excess and removed about 1/2" from the top instead of folding out the excess near the crotch line as illustrated in the guide sheet.  Starting from the center front seam with removing 1/2" blending to the side seam.  My pants sit about a 1.5" above the waist.  This is where I want them to  sit.
• The back crotch is almost perfect.  I lengthen the back hook by 1/2".
• I prefer a curved waistband.  That's where McCall M5818 comes in.  I love this pants pattern.  I subsituted the curved waistband for the straight.  On the back waistband, I folded out the excess near the center back so that the waistband does not stand away from my body.
• Palmer/Pletsch pattern include 1" side seam allowances, which make it easy to tweak the pants as you sew.  Luckily, I did not need it, but it's good to have a little extra width to fit the circumstance of your body.
• The pants are cropped, which are not my favorite for flare legged pants.  So I added several inches to make them long.

These are the basic changes that I made for myself.  On construction changes:

• Added interfacing at the pocket opening to stablize the area.
• Added interfacing to the center front to stablize where the zipper will be placed.
• Added a fly.  It looks nicer.
• Added seam binded to the hem.  It looks nicer.
• For the brown pair I stitched the verticle section of the pocket opening closed to eliminate any gapping in the tummy area.  The fabric has a lot of stretch in it.  The stitching helps maintain the appearance of "matched stripes" in the pocket area.  This step was not done for the orange pair as the fabric is crisp with just a little stretch.
• Added a button to inside closure.

The basic pattern description is:  Misses' top and pants semi-fitted, pullover top has "V" neckline and stitched hem.  Pants have wide legs and are cropped.  B:  Below waist with from exposed zipper.  C:  mock fly front zipper and waistband with hook and eye closure.  Sizes:  6 to 22.

My pants look like view C only longer.  My favorite detail of the pants is the pocket.  The front has nice pocket detail, but it's also clean and crisp.  A good look for a lady with a little pot in her belly. ;-)

My fabrics used:

Orange polyester stretch woven blend.  This is a sturdy fabrication that create a crisp looking pair of pants.  The bold color is what drew my to it.  I wish Mood had it in more colors.  Brown polyester stretch woven blend.  This fabric has more drape and more stretch.  It's been in my stash for a few years and it came from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston, Illinois.  Both fabrics are beautiful and easy to sew.  I used a sharp sewing needle (12).

I will use this pant pattern again and again.  It's already another TNT pant pattern.  Of course, I recommend it to other sewists.  But first, work through your personal fit adjustments.  It's a winner!

Happy Sewing!

C