Notes on a Pattern - Vogue 1247 Top

Vogue 1247 Top is very popular in the sewing community.  It is no surprise that hundreds of imagines of it are posted online in a variety of colors and textiles.  I'm sure my sewing experience is not very different from other sewists. 

I love sewing Vogue patterns.  There is almost always something interesting in the construction process.  This top has all french seams except for the neckband, sleeve band, and the hem.  French seams are not difficult to make.  But they do take a little more time than the average seaming.  Because for each section sewn there is two seams instead of one.  To make them effectively, you may need to trim the seam then press as you go.  The pressing is something that we, sewists, should do anyway.   This process helps to reinforce some basic sewing practices.  I love how the inside of this top looks with all french seams, no serging.

The entire construction process was great.  It took me about 2.5 hours to complete it all except for the hem.  This afternoon I finished that in a matter of minutes.  I did it the old school way.  First step, press the desired hem; second step turn and pin; finally sew the hem in place.  Perfect hemming.

Part of the lower half of the top is cut on the bias which helps reduced uneven turning of the clothe.  My fabric also helped.  Cotton voile with a smooth, semi-crisp hand.  It's very easy to work with.  If I make it again, I may choose a silky fabric. 

On another note..,

Recently, I purchased a set of specialized feet. There is one that can produced the same hem.  But instinctively, I just follow the method that I've used for years. 

I did make some minor adjustments to the tissue pattern before cutting into my fashion fabric.  I didn't like the wide neckline.  I already have broad shoulder.   So I narrowed the neckline by raising the back about an inch and the front about the same.  I did not make a FBA.  This top is super loose.   At the front neckline a small tuck is needed to help reduce any gapping that may occur.  Finally, I did a small swayback tuck across the lower back.  I was glad it already had a center back seam.  If I make it again, I will lengthen the top by a few inches. 

The construction of the sleeve band, I sewed it on with the right facing the wrong side of the top.  Then fold it to the right side and stitched.  No other changes made.

That's it on the notes for this top.  I hope to post pictures of me wearing the top soon.  As for the skirt, I do like it and hope to make it soon.  

Stay tuned and happy sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - M6986

Today's installment of Note on a Pattern is the new Palmer/Pletsch fall wrap dress.  It has a little bit of 80's vibe with a "cinched waist".  I'm seeing a lot of 80-ish styling for the upcoming fall season and the "wrap dress" is a favorite.   I purchased this pattern as soon as I saw it. 

Things I like about it:

• Wrap dress
• Cut on sleeves (dolman), more room across the chest area.  More comfort and ease in wearing, still stylish.
• Cinch waist; I'm thinking of using a stable knit for the dress and a faux leather/suede for the midriff to create an obi effect.
• Palmer/Pletsch instructions and fitting techniques; I like having the fit lines drawn on the pattern.  It saves time.  Plus, this pattern as a different style bodice with cut on sleeves.  I like having the detailed instructions on how to handle the FBA.  
• Because it's fall, I'm going to make view B, with length of view A.

The dress on the model, appears to be too big.  The cinching at the waist is not apparent.  I will  eliminate some of the style ease throughtout the dress.  Also, I will stitch the pleats so they lay flat.  They fall right on the tummy area.  I like to fit of the dress below.

That's it for this installment of Notes on a Pattern.  What do you think about this pattern?

Happy Sewing!
C