I haven't done a Notes on a Pattern in awhile. I thought it would be good to share my struggle with this project. Simply because this is a new pattern and I got carried away when I saw 46 inches as the finished width in the bust area for size medium. I shouldn't have paid it any attention. It is deceiving.
If you measure the circumference of the pattern pieces at the bust area, yes it is 46 inches. But you need to look a little closer. Once you form the buttonhole placket all of those "extra" inches disappear. So the actual finished circumference at the full bust is far from 46 inches.
 |
| This is what you actually have to work with minus side seam allowances |
And this is where my troubles begin. Word to the wise. Never go on automatic pilot.
I tried on my first version of the shirt: front, back, and yoke with finished button holes and all. Guess what? It did not fit. Ugh..,
Luckily, I had about a yard or so of the fabric left. So I recut the front (dartless FBA) and the back yoke with a few more little tweaks. Sewed it together again. It was a good fit. Next, I checked the collar and collar stand. They also needed to be recut (size large). After finishing the collar, I needed to tackle the upper sleeve because of the adjustments made to the front and tweaks to the back yoke. My suspicions were right. I needed the upper sleeve to be a little larger. Not so much in the cap but the lower armsyce. No more fabric. So I made a little insert (2") cut on the bias. It worked. Finally, for the lower sleeve and cuff, no change. I just eased the excess in.
All of this extra tweaking and fitting because of one little finished measurement. My bad for not analyzing the design of the pattern a little further. So, lesson learned again. Lol. This one I should have made a muslin. Oops I did. Lol
I'm so glad I had extra fabric and I was able to work out the fit issues without trashing the entire
So that's my Notes on a Pattern. The rest of the review is coming soon.
Happy Sewing!
C
They INCLUDED the extra from the folded back placket in their finished measurements? Shame on them, that's crazy. I mean, I get it, you are blaming yourself for not measuring it, but really, it's on them. You're an experienced seamstress. What about the many newer sewers who would think they did something wrong? Crazy, I say. It is a nice shirt - wow on those sleeves!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Marji. That is precisely why I decided to do a Notes post. Because the finished measurements are incorrect. This can be very discouraging to a new sewer. Thanks again.
DeleteI agree with Marci It’s Vogue’s mistake. It’s supposed to be a finished measurement and It obviously isn’t. Shame on them for not getting it right! Lucky save.
ReplyDelete