Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Notes on a Pattern - Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial McCall's M8240


This is my muslin


It has been a while since I did a Notes on a Pattern.  

This top is all over social media.  I hesitated to make it for fear of the front placket not being perfect.  To help myself, I researched for some tutorials to get a flawless placket.  I did find a few on Instagram that were helpful.  An easy fit.  My other concern was with the FBA adjustment.  Could I get away without adjusting?  So for my wearable muslin, I decided to use the molly t-shirt front pattern as a sloper for the FBA. 


Well, it didn't exactly work to my liking.  The center front hem is slightly higher than the rest of the hem. So, I did the next best thing:  I made a traditional FBA for the best fit.  Today, I am posting a FBA tutorial for this McCall's pullover.

Below is my tutorial:



Step 1 - Draw the lines to prepare for the slash and spread of the pattern sections.


Step 2 - Cut along the line 1 and spread the desired amount of the adjustment.  In this instance, the amount is 1".


Step 3 - Cut and spread line 2 at the bust area to bring balance back to the side.


Step 4 - fill in with tissue paper along line 1 and 2.  Tape in place except for the lower right portion severl inches above the hem.




Step 5 - Cut and spread line 3 to true up the hemline.  Then fill in with tissue paper.


Step 6 - trim tissue paper all except for the bust area.




Step 7 - Fold the dart in half to trim tissue paper.  True up the bust dart along the side seam.

That's it for the basic traditional full bust adjustment.  I hope this information/tutorial is helpful.

Happy Sewing!
C


4 comments:

  1. Thank you so much for this! I have been wanting to learn this for a long time. I have a question: how do you know how much to spread the slash? You said you were adding an inch. I wondered how you come to that number. Thank you!

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    Replies
    1. Thanks. There are several ways to do this. First you should determine what size pattern to purchase/cut based on your high bust measurements. Make a muslin using that pattern and try it on. Determine the amount of spread based on that. The center front should be at your center front. If not, how much spread would make it fit appropriately. Or you can purchase a muslin pattern. All of the big four has one in the pattern catalog. It will provide more instructions.

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