Rhonda's Shirred Wrist Sleeve Hacked Into A Shirred Forearm Sleeve - Notes on a Pattern - M8003 Part II

Happy to post about my little experiment with Rhonda's shirred wrist sleeve.  I decided to hack it into a shirred forearm sleeve.  It turned out beautifully. 


This was so easy to design/hack.  I made a shirred wrist sleeve for another McCall's m6964 knit top a few years ago.  That post is here.

Rhonda give you step by step instructions on how to make the shirring.  It's really up to you on how far you want to go with it.

I will use this sleeve again.  It adds style to a regular ole plain sleeve.  Below is how it looks just hanging.

Here are my tissue patterns for both sleeve designs:  shirred wrist and shirred forearm.  Try it; you'll like it.

shirred wrist sleeve

Shirred Forearm sleeve

Happy Sewing!
C

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity 8982

Hi everyone,

It's been ages since I posted and even longer since I posted Notes on a Pattern.  Anyway, today I'd like to give some details on my pattern adjustments, talk about my likes and personal preferences using one of Simplicity's popular patterns for the Fall 2019 season.  It is also the "SewYourView" challenge pattern for November.

Simplicity S8982

Easy to Sew Misses' Dress or two-piece top and skirt. Designed and sized for stretch knits only. Dress is below-knee length with long sleeves. Top has straight or cuffed sleeve options. Pull-on skirt is elasticated at waist. Two length options. (description from the website.)

The pattern is available in two size groupings (6-14 and 14-22), which is pretty good for range of sizes available.  Because the pattern is so simple, you can easily grade it up if needed.

The instructions are pretty typical, no problems with understanding or following them.  I must confess, I didn't look at them until after I made my first top and skirt.  But because I'd wanted to do a Notes post, I decided to read them.  They are easy and all level sewists can follow them.

Looking at the drawing and the modeled view of C and D, the skirt appears to be tapered below the hip.   But the skirt pattern is exactly like the drawing, straight from the hip to hem.  So without any changes, your garment will look like the illustration.

I made a few fit adjustments and as well as personal preference changes.  Being with the top, view C:

• FBA using Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit.  Her FBA eliminates the bust dart that the standard FBA creates.
• Reduced the neckband by 1/2".  My first version still does not fit as snug as the modeled version.  For the next version, I reduced it by 1.5".
• Prominent shoulder blade adjustment (with shoulder dart).
• Swayback adjustment and slightly forward shoulder adjustment to correct the shoulder seam alignment. 
• Added a centered back seam for a better fit. 
• Because of the added width created by the FBA and PSB adjustments, I had to eliminate the added width below the bust by grading down a few sizes.  That is not illustrated here. I only showed the initial adjustments. I typically make that adjustment as I sew.

• Lengthen the sleeves by 2"
• Tapered the cuffs for a more attractive look.
• I also lengthen the top by a few inches.  But this was done on the pattern after this top was made. 

Skirt:

• Cut my usual size at the waist and tapered below the hip to the hem.  This change also produced a more flatter look and the skirt looks more like the skirt worn by the model. 

This is a good basic pattern that you can get a lot of mileage out of once you've worked out the adjustments.  For that reason, I like it and will use it over and over again.  If you're teaching sewing, it's a good beginner pattern.  Students will come away with a stylish outfit that is very easy to sew.  For me, it's a nice wardrobe builder.  So far, I've made three versions of top, view C, and one of the skirt, view D.   Next week, I will post me wearing my first versions of views C and D.

In the meantime, hears a picture of the outfit on Rochelle (I named my dress form).

Happy Sewing!
C

Tomato Red Bold - Vogue 9239 In Review

Red and Orange are two of my favorite colors.  Both are bold and vibrant. I love wearing these colors and hope to add more red and orange to my wardrobe during the fall and winter seasons.  So today, I'm happy to share my newest dress made with tomato red (red-orange color) ponte knit.  Here's my pattern review.

Pattern:  Vogue 9239

Pattern Description:  Fitted bodice dresses have front and back princess seams, full or slim skirt, and sleeve variations.  Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:  sizes 6 - 22; I used 14 neck/shoulder, 16 through bust area, and 14 skirt.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, the design lines are like the drawing and the photographed dress.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical; nothing confusing about them.  Some of the construction processes I did not do.  Later on those details.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?   I love the sleeve and skirt variations.  Having the multiple cup size option and the princess seams are great too.  It's easier to make fit adjustments.

Fabric Used:  I purchased this lovely tomato red ponte knit from Fabric Mart during the summer.  They may not have it anymore as I bought the last four yards of it.  The pattern recommends lighter fabrics.  I understand why.  The upper body has additional pieces for the front/back shoulder area which adds some bulk along the seam lines.  Also, the bodice is underlined and lined.  This became a dislike as I sewed the dress.  But at the same time, I felt the underlining helps stabilize along the neck and shoulder areas, especially when you use a fabric with some stretch.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Yes, I made a few.  They are:

•  With my available cup size, I made minimum tweaks to the front bodice.

• Swayback - I made a small one, but think I needed to go a little deeper to remove the winkles across my back.
• No prominent should blade adjustment.  The many pieces to the back allowed me more adjustment options along the seams.
• I added about one inch to the length of the bodice, which I could have skipped; maybe not.  But it looks like too much fabric in the bodice.
• Skirt - Added an inch or two the length; rise the center back up by 1/2 inch.  My swayback causes the center back to rest lower than the rest of the back waist seam; and I didn't line the skirt.  This ponte knit is opaque.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I'm going to make this dress again, view C.  I have a very nice black crepe polyester from Mood Fabrics.  The dress was a piece of cake to sew. 

Conclusion:  I wanted to make this dress all summer long and finally I made it Monday before last.  It's a good make and I'm pleased with the results. But I do hope that with a lighter fabric it will be easier to press along those triple layers of the bodice.  I want make view C early November in time for the holiday season.

Happy Sewing!
C

Oops, I've Been Too Quiet Again!

Sorry, I know it seems like I've taken a hiatus from sewing. Really, I haven't. Actually, I've sewn several garments over the past two months; but it's been difficult finding the time to take pictures or the photos shoot ends up not so good. What is becoming more and more difficult to do is to blog on a regular basis. I took a part-time job in a dental office. It's nothing like my former career in IT at the University, where I could key out a post with no problems. There is almost zero time during my off days to actually sit down at my laptop or desktop to type out a blog.

More and more I'm viewing Instagram and Facebook instead. Both are quick ways to stay connected. I still feel, though, that blogging is a better way to journal my sewing journal, share my experiences, and learn from others. So, it's an effort that I hope to continue.

Currently, I have multiple projects going at the same time. One is the "Shirt Project". Early this summer, I decided to practice making button-down or button-up shirts. My goal is to learn to fit and sew them well. Currently, I've made five shirts. My quest got the attention of the HCC President and the Program Director; they asked if I would do a presentation on my shirts. Of course, I said yes. But it meant that I would need to make more shirts to show different design and style elements. The process also gives me a chance to identify some tips and techniques that may be helpful to others. In the coming weeks, I hope to post a few more shirts.

Secondly, I'm working with one client, Pastor Jenetta Ross, who I've made several clergy robes for. This time the commission is for two robes: white and gold (already finished and delivered) and a red and black robe. Both made using Simplicity 5386. The white and gold was basically made the same as the blue one pictured here. 

Thirdly, there are several things on the sewing table for my DD. Starting with a few dresses, a swimsuit (I know summer is almost over, but there is always vacation.), a coat and a few shirts. 

Finally, other things for myself I will make several knit tops that include sleeve designs created by Rhonda Buss. Sleeves are so very big these days. I've selected a few designs that are trendy as well as classic, if that makes sense. Part of my goal is to continue to try different things to enhance my sewing skills and to jazz up my classic style. Also, I hope to share my thoughts on some fall/winter mini wardrobes. In all of this will emerge my entries for the HCC Fashion Show 2018. That's may sewing "catch up" post. Next up I'll share some "Notes on a Pattern".

Thanks and Happy Sewing!

Cennetta