Easter Is Almost Here!

We are about four weeks away from Easter. Not a lot of time. I've a few clients projects (separate posts). So I'm starting now on DD's Easter outfit. From my first muslin attempt I noticed quite a few alterations. Particularly in the shoulder area. I cut size 10 of S2588-first view on the left. Also revealed DD has square shoulder. It's very noticeable in this dress. From the muslin notes, you can see my challenge. I slashed the sleeve trying to see if that would help. I also pondered making slashes in the front and back yoke but decided that wouldn't solve the problem. The "pull" seems to be in the sleeves and upper bodice area just below the yoke. Any suggestions??? I definitely need to make another muslin to get it right. Other alterations observed: prince seam (front needs to be move just a little (1/4") towards the center and small sway back adjustment. The bottom of the back bodice needs a small adjustment as well, but I will wait until I see how the other changes affect the fit. This weekend I want to do the second muslin to see if I can solve the fitting issues. Suggestions on the broad, square shoulder alteration would be greatly appreciated.






I'm also making a matching jacket, S2558 view A-short version with bell sleeves.

The fabric that I'm using for the outfit is a fit from Marji. DD really likes the fabric.

Fitting Vogue 1084 - Part III

Over the weekend I was able to sew and fit the muslin for Ms. PB's banquet dress. As a rule I make muslin for clients. It helps me with fitting, of course, and it helps identify the challenges in the construction process and how well the pieces go together. With each project I glean more useful information from the muslin process. Making the muslin provides information on how the garment will look draped on the body. One of Ms. PB's first questions about the pattern illustration was, "Will the dress stand out as it does in the pattern drawing?" My response was, "I've learned over the years that the drawing may be a little exaggerated. The truth in the shape and foam of the dress will come in the muslin made in a similar fabric as the desired dress." In this case, there was not a lot of body in the form of this dress. It hangs close to the body.






Fitting changes: The overall pattern fits a little big on Ms. PB. Throughout the bodice and skirt I could have cut the pattern between size 16 and 18 instead of size 18.

- Sides take in 1/2 inch
- Sway back adjustment needed -- increase the darts and fold out about 1/4 inch along the center back (small back area)
- At upper back seam where the sleeve and bodice join, take in 1/4 inch
- At shoulder seam increase the seam allowance of the back upper sleeve





There are a few challenges: the joining of the side front to the front bodice/skirt was that the upper and lower corners. And the upper seam of the side front didn't evenly go together. So that needs to be tweaked just a little bit.



Design changes:

- Sleeve length is above the elbow
- Add slits at upper sleeve seam
- Cut skirt at pattern length, but it may be adjusted at first dress fitting
- Deeper pleat at center back

That's it so far. Will see how the next fitting goes.
C

Cadena! The Ultimate Fashion Inspiration

This is my favorite silhouette. I love the lace skirt. I would have chosen a different color for the belt though.

On Friday, I picked up my Cadena Spring 2010 catalog. This is my all time favorite fashion magazine. The fashion and illustration are superb.

Love, love. This lace is simply beautiful.

This season they feature layers, fluid and jacquard fabrics in a variety of silhouettes. Every page has something to like. I went through the magazine about five times before deciding which fashion I would share for inspiration. It was HARD. So I ended up selecting about nineteen outfits as favorites only posting a few of them here. The magazine is worth buying. Trust me.

Fishman's (312-922-3396) has a few left for sale. The cost is $30.00. Asked for Patricia; she handles the sale of Cadena magazine. In the store, they also have the catalog with all the fabric featured in the magazine. You can special order it from Cadena.

Here we go!

The jacket on the left has so many great design elements. The belt, two length sleeves, rolled/scrolled collar. Love it.

Tones of grey. The cinched waist is also a feature in many of the details. The fabric is

Tier or layers is one of the featured elements of this season's Cadena magazine.



The piping is great in this jacket. I like the brown/beige hues of the outfit. One of my goals is to add piping to a garment.



I like the colors of these outfits.



Simple Chic

Happy Sewing!
C

Another Clergy Robe - Butterick 6844

The Harris Family (members of my church) commissioned me to make a robe for Min. Hollis. They wanted to secretly give Min Hollis a robe. So I couldn't tell her who the gift was from when I took her measurements. On Sunday they presented their gift. She was well pleased at the thought and the robe.

I've used this pattern multiple times for robes for Min. Ross. Each time creating a different look. This version was basic View B with contrasting fabric for cuffs and collar. I also made a matching sash.

Here are a highlights:

I added shoulder pads. They made they the upper chest and shoulders better form.

The pocket folds toward the side back of the robe and is anchored to side pleat. The facing of the pocket is slightly exposed through the slit.

Vintage Vogue 1084 - Ms. PB - Part II

Last Saturday, Ms. P. Bell and I made another trek to Fishman's for fabric. Vogue was unable to place the order from the warehouse because the order was for less than 30 yards. We were lucky. Fishman's had some of their silk dupioni on sale for $7.50. You can't beat that. We were able to work out a design scheme with two shades of gold.

Initially, we thought to redraft the front bodice/skirt section into two separate pieces. But on Monday Ms. P. Bell spoke again about changing the way we would use the lighter shade for the back skirt. In which case, the front bodice/skirt section could remain as one.

I must send a shout out to Fishman's sell team. They are always super helpful with gathering materials needed to make your garment. On Saturday, Thomas spent quite a bit of time with us. I've never had a bad experience with the sale's team.

While I was there, I noticed the pattern section only had Vogue pattern and the Cadena fabric/fashion catalogs. And yeah, the ladies at the register told me the Cadena magazines were in. I reserved mine Spring issue a few weeks ago. I need to pick it up today or tomorrow. Of choice, I have a show and tell. Cadena is the best.

Oh well, the pattern has been cut. Next I'll make the muslin. (Not following Jean Haas's technique this go round. Maybe I follow it for DD's Easter dress.) Other sewing news. .., Min. Hollis's robe is complete. I'm picking it up from the cleaners today. It's white trimmed in black. When I did the final press, I noticed a few dirty spots on it.

More to come later.

My First Meeting - Haute Couture Club of Chicago

Finally able to sit down and talk about the exciting time I had at my first club meeting. I was thrilled at the initial invitation from Marty Moser, VP of Membership back in the fall. Well on Saturday I meet a host of fabulous, sewing fashionistas from all over the Chicagoland area.

Here's how the day went:

Meeting place - Illinois Institute of Art in the Apparel Center

The institute was like the school sent from heaven. This was my first visit to the institute. As I made my way through the corridors searching for the meeting room, I passed classroom and beautiful exhibits. I found myself wishing I had gone to school here. It would have been totally different from my school experience at UIC, math class after math class, after IDS class. Of course, I forgot my camera. But I managed to take a few pictures with my phone. When I found the room, the meeting was already in session.


One of the exhibits on the first floor

Agenda - Socializing, Meeting, and Program

As facilitator, Maria C., asked if anyone had a "show and tell" project to present to the group. Several people did. After a few presentation I raised my hand, stood up, introduced myself and did a show and tell of the pants and coat I wore. It was a good segment of the meeting, filled with several tellings of creative work. I was glad to be in the group.

The night before the meeting I read the entire newsletter, which was filled with challenges, program information, classes, fashion show, you name it. All about creativity. Ms. Jean Haas was the program presenter. Highlights from her session included pattern fitting and draping over dress forms. I learned so much with her session and am eager to try some of her techniques. To list a few tips here and now:

Pattern Fitting - - Make or purchase I custom dress form upper body and pants
- Identify points of measurement vertical and horizontal on the forms. This helps with fitting and draping.
- When pattern fitting use the center front and back as your starting point.
- Find the apex of the back bodice pattern using the front bodice pattern (bust point) as a guide.
- Fold the pant pattern in half from the hem to the waist to find the grainline and use it as a point of reference when fitting pants.
- Purchase re-stickable tape for easy removal and repositioning when fitting patterns.
- Purchase a variety of rulers to help with drafting, fitting, and truing patterns.


Draping -
- This is hard to tell without illustrations. In a later post, I'll try to
demonstrate.


The pant form after the program

Ms Hass was fabulous and I wished we had more time to learn. Here is a link to Jean Haas' dressform designing.


After the Program - Lunch
I joined several members for lunch after the program. We shared stories about our sewing experiences and talked about upcoming club events. I sat near Jean, Maria, Cleo, Nikki, and Sandra. They were all very charming women. It was a rewarding experience and I am very happy I didn't think twice about joining. I was on TEN for the rest of the day. So I rushed home to do some sewing. Now I want to finish up client projects so I can sew for ME.

Happy Sewing!
C

Special Thanks and New Client Projects

Special thanks to everyone who commented and complimented on the wardrobes for my DD. On Friday she interviewed with two companies: one for her entrepreneur class and the other with a cyberspace newspaper. She wore the hounds tooth suit. Blessed girl..., she was hired for the cyberspace newspaper on Saturday. Today DD is a Voter Administrator for election. She is growing up and doing exciting things. I'm happy..., sigh, sigh

Saturday I went shopping with Ms. PB. You remember her? I made Vogue 8355 for a dinner party about two years ago.





This time I'm commissioned to make Vogue 1084.



Dinner date March 28th. Back to the shopping experience. The dress will be made of silk dupioni. First we went to Fishman's to just look at all the beautiful fabric candy. Their silk dupioni is $18.00 per yard and the silk taffeta and shantung was $60.00. So went walked over to Vogue; they had the dupioni for $11.99 per yard. We ordered the fabric there. The Evanston store has every fabric in every color. Their silk taffeta and shantung is $30.00 per yard.

I only had one prom dress commission this year; she canceled Sunday. So that leaves more time for me to sew for myself.

Finally, I'm making another clergy robe and am about half way done. Still need to finish DD's purple dress for wardrobe 2.

So that's it for now.
Stay Tuned and Happy Sewing!
C

PS
Still making rounds to all the blogs I like. See ya soon!