The Black and White of B5427

On Tuesday evening I finished the second suit made from Butterick 5427. It's not much different than the black suit finished last week. I put trim down the center front and sewed the buttonholes over that. Here are a few photos. Hopefully, I'll get pictures of my client wearing it.

Before the buttons were added






Buttonhole over trim


Trim on sleeve


This time I came closer to the "V" shaped neckline.



Parting shots - Min. Ross wearing the black suit on May 9, 2010.

B5427 - The Black Suit

Last night I finished the first suit. I was happy with the results. The muslin the I sewed for the project will be the sloper for future garments. Min. Ross wants this basic suit for more outfits using different fabrics, trim with minor design line changes. That's a plus for me.

This evening she will pick up her suit, and I will probably cut the next on Friday. She needs it be the following week.

Here's the rest of my review:


Pattern Description: MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE JACKET, SKIRT AND PANTS: Lined, fitted jackets A, B, C, in two lengths, have stand-up collar, princess seams and above wrist length sleeves. A, B: snap closing and button trim. C: button and buttonhole closing. A, C: purchased trim. B: jewel stones. Semi-fitted skirt D, mid-knee length, has princess seams and back zipper. Semi-fitted, straight legged pants E have back zipper and optional creases.

Pattern Sizing: 6- 20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes and No. I made several changes. But the basic design lines are the same.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't really read them as this is a basic princess seam jacket with basic straight/pencil skirt and pant. I did notice that the instructions suggested attaching one collar to the jacekt and the other to the lining. It's easier to complete the collar then attach it to the jacket then attach the lining.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My client liked the basic design lines and saw the potential for several suits made from this same pattern.

Fabric Used: Duchess polyester satin and china silk for the lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Several alterations and design changes. First I started with the muslin and incorporated most of the design changes into that. Here is a blog post that documents some of the changes.

On the Skirt:



Trim on the collar and sleeve -






Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I'm cutting the next suit Friday. She'll want more things made from the pattern. And yes I do recommend it to others. This can be a sloper for princess style jacket and for a basic skirt and pant.

Conclusion: This was not difficult to sew. This is a good basic wardrobe pattern. All pictures here.

B5427 - Clergy Garments

Too bad for me. I had to miss the April Haute Couture Meeting to meet a project deadline for Min. Ross. Last month, she asked me to make two suits from B5427. Of course, I did a muslin first to give a visual of how the suit would look.

Several changes were made based on her style and/or perference:

- Add length to jacket - 9 inches
- Add length to skirt - 2 inches
- Add back slit to skirt - 7 inches
- Add length to sleeve

Fitting changes -

The didn't need to make drastic fitting adjustments. Or maybe I'm getting used to making certain changes. ;-)

At the small of her back, I took in a bit.



I added a bit to the shoulder area. I inserted 1/2 shoulder pads for better shaping. Also from the muslin fitting I noticed that there was a lot of ease in the sleeve cap. So this change helping with that as well.



The collar stood away from the neck same as on the model of the pattern envelope.



She wanted a closer fit.



Jacket front neckline adjustment.



The collar was slightly wider than the desired trim. I adjustment the wideth.





The skirt was perfect as far as fit.


Next post, black suit finished with rest of the review.

Stay Tuned!
C


















trying to meet a deadline for a project for Min. Ross. Two weeks prior I made a muslin for the suit.Busily sewing for Min. Ross who has commissioned me to make two suits (black and white) from Butterick 5427. Before I cut into the fabric, I made a muslin as she plans to have several outfits of this style.

Last week was the first fitting

Simplicity Pattern Design Contest!

Please click on the link below
Simplicity Contest

GRAND PRIZE: Winner will win a trip to NYC, meet with the Design and Production staff. The winning original design will be produced and distributed worldwide as an Inspired by Project Runway® pattern in the Simplicity Pattern Collection and featured on www.simplicity.com.

+First Prize: Brother Project Runway® Sewing Machine,a $300 Simplicity.com shopping spree and your design featured on Simplicity.com.

+Second Prize: Simplicity Bias Tape Maker and a Simplicity Rotary Cutter Machine.

+Third Prize: A $50 Simplicity.com shopping spree and Simplicity 8” Shears.

The Perfect Cover Up Simplicity 4256

This jacket has been in my collection for about four years. I purchased it for two reasons: it includes B-D cups sizes and the peplum jacket (view b).

Pattern Description: Misses' lined jackets with trim variations.

Pattern Sizing: 6 -22. I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Pretty much. All except for the length of the jacket. It appears to be a little longer on the model. Maybe it's me. If I make it again, I will add a little length to it to create a "leaner" silhouette.

Were the instructions easy to follow? There were no confusing instructions. Pretty standard for the view I made. Caution - The joining of the lining to the front facing/upper collar at the shoulder is a little tricky, but doable.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Peplum waistline and the varying cup sizes. I try to take advantage of patterns that offer multiple cup sizes.

Fabric Used: Stretch woven poly twill from Vogue Fabric's on Roosevelt Rd. Cling free lining from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: No alterations. But I decided to follow Vogue's method of sewing the peplum.

Here is a photo of the finished peplum. Simplicity 4256 says to cut 2 pieces of the front flounce and 1 piece of the back flounce; sew them together; sew a rolled hem; then attach to jacket. I prefer Vogue's method: Cut 4 pieces of front and 2 of the back. Sew 2 complete flounces then combine them to create a more polished peplum. As I pressed at the hem, I slightly rolled the upper flounce toward the under side;then I understitched at the hem. Next the waist of the flounce (under) was trimmed evenly then attached to the jacket.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I think I may make one more version of it. And yes, I recommend it if you have it in your collection.

Conclusion: Cute little jacket that is not difficult to sew and would compliment your spring wardrobe.

Springing It Up With Butterick 5455

We are four months into the new year and I still haven't tried any new tailoring techniques. Oh well..., At least this cute dress does have some piping to show off the design lines.

Here's my review:

Pattern Description: Misses' Dresses semi-fitted, straight dresses A, B, midknee length, have lined bodice, pleated front neckline, midriff front, side slant pockets, back zipper and hemline vent A; self fabric piping trim.

Pattern Sizing: Sizes 8 to 20. I used size 14 with modifications. View A.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy breezy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the pleated neckline, piping, and shape of the pockets. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: I think the fabric roll tag said some type of silk. The lining is bemberg. Both purchased at Fishman's Fabrics in February this year. Great fabric to work with. I wasn't concerned with matching of the "starburst". Just made sure the center of a burst didn't fall on a particular body part. ;-)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made a few alterations/design changes:

-Added a inch or two to the hemline
-Instead of making piping from the fashion fabric, I bought white piping to add a little contrast since I was making a matching white jacket.
-Made a FBA

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not for myself. But I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: This is a great little spring/summer dress to add to your wardrobe. And it's easy to sew.

Carnivale - Haute Couture Club of Chicago

From the moment I stepped off the elevator (14th floor of the Mart) til bed time 10:00pm I was on 10. There was energy, excitement, and loads of fun in the atmosphere. I was in seventh heaven. Who would have thought such an illustrious organization/club existed. It was great!

The floor was abuzz with fellow artisans and guests, all full of anticipation of the events of the day. Waves of emotions came over me as I surveyed the land of the Haute Couture Carnivale! I felt inspired and energized to make better garments in the days to come. There were moments when I felt totally out of my league and then I was back to feeling absolutely grateful to have been invited to become a member.

After four months of membership, I was at the annual fashion show with two garments, modeled by my DD. The entire program was a spectacular event. From the marketplace to the grand finale on the runway. The event was very well organized. There was so much to observe and learn. My fellow members/artisans are all joy, not a one without a huge smile and inviting conversation.

I'm almost afraid to start mentioning names for fear that I'd forgot someone. But I must say Ms. Rhonda Buss and Ms. Sandra Young are absolutely phenomenal. They gave "it" their ALL. Ms. Rhonda Buss, president, modeled at least six outfits. All were impeccably made. Ms. Sandra Young, headed the team of wonderful people who put together the event, also designed and modeled about the same number of equally impressive outfits. The runway was filled with notable expressions of creative interpretations of couture fashions from Martha Moser's Red orange linen short cape to Cleo Thomas's Valentino inspired Black lame stretch knit cocktail dress. It was all to great to miss.

Sorry no pictures to show. As usual I didn't think about my camera until I was half way to my destination. Shame on me. There were professional photographers on hand so I'm sure the club members will have an opportunity to view all the photos taken.

That's all for now. Stay tuned for more on the Haute Coutour Club in the months to come.

Happy Sewing!
C