Quintessential Little Black Dress

The Quintessential Little Black Dress is always on trend.   It's an easy solution for most occasions.  The selection of RTW styles is endless.   There is something for every age and every lifestyle.  But of course, most of my followers make their own LBD's.  So, how many LBD's does a lady need?

This year I made two, and it's only February.  Both dresses were made using patterns previously reviewed.  So I won't re-review them.  Details on the reviews are here (B5672) and here (S2054).

Sorry, I only have one picture of me wearing my new LBD, but I managed to get a few more indoor shots of DD in her new dress.

For my dress, I purchased a burnout stretch velvet.  I wanted to make a dress to wear to the American Opera Society Gala last December. I did not make it until early January.   I used a nude knit lining, hoping it would show through the burnout section of the velvet.  No luck.

DD's dress is made from a textured knit from my stash.  Anyway, we both have a new LBD to add to our wardrobe.

Happy Sewing!
C

Another Easy Knit Top - McCall 6241

Today's review is on McCall's 6241. I was surprised to see that it was out of print so soon. It's easy and great to wear with leggings. I made this version over a year ago.  

Pattern Description:
MISSES' AND WOMEN'S TUNICS IN TWO LENGTHS: Pullover tunics A, B, C have extended shoulders with pleats at one shoulder and side, machine-stitched hems and asymmetrical lower edge; tunic A has cap sleeves; tunics B, C have long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:
8 to 24W; I used size 14; 16 across the chest.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I thought I might make a pair of sequined leggings to go with it to match the outfit the lady is wearing on the pattern envelope. It never happened. Maybe later. :-)

Were the instructions easy to follow?
No problems.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the pleating at the shoulder and waist. The drape neck is a good look for me. No dislikes.

Fabric Used:
The rayon knit is from my stash.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
No significant changes.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I will and I do recommend it to others. I hope you have it already.

Conclusion: This is a very easy knit top that sews together very quickly. You can style it will your favorite leggings. I like to wear it belted to add some definition at the waist.

In Review: Vogue 8670 and McCall 6404

This afternoon I was determined to take more pictures. So, instead of eating lunch, I decided to try a third time to get pictures for my reviews. These garments were made for weekend comfort.

Lately, I'm not able to spend as much time as I would like sewing. So I'm making things that sew up relatively fast for immediate gratification.

I had both patterns in my collection for some time. Both have been reviewed on pattern review and in blogland multiple times. But that's all right. I wanted to tell about my experience of working with them. They served the purpose of making some quick outfits to add to my small weekend gear. First, I will review the knit top; Vogue 8670.  

Pattern Description:
MISSES' TOP: Close-fitting, straight, below hip length tops A, B, C, D, E have front darts, raglan sleeves with length variations, stitched hems and neckline variation. A: neck band and short sleeves. B: neck band and contrast three-quarter length sleeves. C: scrunch turtleneck collar and long sleeves. D, E: mock turtle neck with button closure. D: three-quarter length sleeves. E: long sleeves. I made view B twice with long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:
8 to 24; I used 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, pretty much.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
No problems, easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that the tops were easy to sew; the raglan sleeves and the optional collars. No dislikes.

Fabric Used:
I used ponte and faux snake skin knit from my stash. It's not on the suggested fabric list. My choices had little stretch. So I cut my tops a little bigger.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my usual FBA, prominent shoulder blade adjustment, and sway back adjustments. I also added an inch to the length of the sleeves and two inches to the length of the top. I wanted full coverage of the derriere. I also, added a triangle to the back at the neckline and added a center back seam.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I will make views C and E at another time. This is a great wardrobe builder and is perfect for the cold, cold winters of Chicago.

Conclusion: This was an easy top to sew and is a great wardrobe builder. I recommend it to all level sewists.

Now, the leggings.

I think I have about five different legging patterns in my collection. I've wanted to try them for a while. Last month, I finally got around to it. For my first two pair, I used McCall's 6404. It's out of print.

Pattern Description:
MISSES' LEGGINGS: Close-fitting, casing with elastic. A: Welt pocket with hidden zipper. SUGGESTED FABRICS: Two-Way Stretch Knits: Double Knits. Contrast A,B: Synthetic Leather, Synthetic Suede. Lining A: Lining Fabric. I made view B and D.

Pattern Sizing:
XS to XL; I used Medium with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
No confusion. easy.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I bought this pattern because of the multiple variations. The design will give me opportunities to add uniqueness to my leggings without drafting a pattern. No dislike.

Fabric Used:
I used ponte knit. It does not have as much stretch as the recommended fabrics, but I was able to modify them to fit through the crotch area. I didn't have any fit issues in the leg.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I only added a few inches to the length of the brown pair because I had limited fabric. The cream/beige pair I added about four inches to the length. For both, I lengthen the crotch on the back pant.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes. I plan to make more.

Conclusion: These are a good alternative to the average legging pattern. The pattern is easy to sew and goes together with no problem.

Haute Couture Club of Chicago

Hi There!

For days I've tried to get some decent photos of the garments I made recently.  But I haven't been successful.  It's too cold outside and not enough light inside.  Sooner or later it will work out.

Anyway..,
Today, I wanted to invite everyone who is interested to become a member of the Haute Couture Club of Chicago.  It's a great group of creative ladies plus one gentlemen who recently joined.  So, men, you're welcomed too!

Last weekend we were hit with another mini-snow storm, but I was determined to attend the February meeting.  Our presenter was none other than Mr. Kenneth King. 

It was a fantastic program.  I walk away inspired to try new approaches to making my garments unique.  I also have a new perspective of  being a "perfectionist" and how it can cripple creativity.  Immediately after the meeting, we lunched.  Several members signed up for classes f Saturorday and Sunday afternoon.

Here are a few photos from the meeting.  If you are in the Chicagoland area, consider becoming a member of our great club.

Please visit our website (Haute Couture Club of Chicago) for more information on the history of the club and upcoming events.


Happy Sewing!
C 

Full Bust Adjustment and Dart Rotation - Tutorial

I wondered if it was worthwhile to post an entry on full bust adjustment (FBA) and dart rotation.  The internet has tons of guides for FBA.  But, I haven't seen many FBA and dart rotation tutorials.  At the Palmer/Pletsch retreat, Marta Alto taught a segment on dart rotation and how it could be used as a style element as well adding form and shape to a garment. 

Although, I tried dart rotation in the past, her lesson helped build my confidence to try new ways to use this technique when making a FBA.  It is most challenging to make a FBA on a one piece front bodice.  Sometimes the dart is too large and it is difficult to form without dimpling or sharp points.

Today I'd like to share some examples of how I made a FBA combined with dart rotation.  My first illustration is a simple one.  It is Simplicity 2594-C, top with pleats below the yoke.

1. Make the standard FBA on the bodice.  I used the Palmer/Pletsch "Y" method because the FBA was greater than 1 inch. 

2.  Fill in the FBA with tissue paper, leaving one lege of the "Y" and the dart open.

3.  To close the dart, slash the second leg of the "Y" to open the end at the second pleat.  Next  close the dart and tape it together.  You may need to cut/tear the added tissue to fully rotate the dart into the

4. Next fill in the rotated dart, which is now part of the pleated area of the top.  Redraw the stitching lines for the pleats, evenly distributing the excess.

5.  No bust darts on top pictured below.


Next example is FBA dart rotation on Vogue 1127.  A gathered neckline blouse with bow tie.  This was fitted at the Palmer/Pletch workshop in 2012.

1.  Make the standard FBA on the bodice.  Do not fill in the new bust dart with tissue.

2. Next, slash the neckline to rotate the dart.  Now tape the slash made for the bust together.

3.  Fill in the slash at the neckline with tissue.

4.  Rotated dart becomes part of the gathered neckline. I haven't made this one yet. Soon...

And my final example, is Vogue 1220.  This example does not include all of the steps for making the FBA.  I think you'll understand how to make the FBA and rotate the dart to the shoulder pleats.

1. Remove the side back bodice from the front bodice and set it aside until the FBA and the rotation are complete. 

2.  Follow the steps for making a standard FBA and rotate the dart to the pleated area of the bodice.  Tape the slash for the bust dart together and tape the side back bodice in place.

3.  Redraw the pleats so they are evenly distributed at the joining edge.  That's it.

Happy sewing!
Cennetta

Colors! Colors! Spring 2014

I'm sure by now everyone knows the Pantone "It Color" for Spring 2014 is dazzling blue.  It's not your regular ole dark blue or navy.  It's bright, bold and fresh.  This eye catching hue is the perfect catalyst to jump start your 2014 wardrobe. 

I'm sure we will be seeing many of the other Pantone colors for Spring 2014.  There are four colors from this palette that are in my own personal color palette: dazzling blue, radiant orchid, celosia orange and sand.

That brings me to my next thought:  Do you follow the colors trends?  Or do you base your seasonal color palette on the colors that best suit your skin tone?

Last week I started playing around with different color combinations in my personal color palette.  Most of them are fall-ish, but the work well with my skin tone.

 

The next group of palettes are colors I want to incorporate into my wardrobe.

So what color combinations are you thinking about adding to your wardrobe?








 Happy Sewing!
C

McCall's 6513 - Views B and D

Hi!

I hope everyone is keeping warm. Today it is -17 degrees in Chicago. I haven't left the house in two days and am happy not to go out tomorrow or the next day. Both tops were finished late November, 2013. Finally, I'm reviewing them.

 I jotted down a few notes about this project and other 2013 projects for fear of forgetting something important. These tops are not short on reviews as there are many posted on Patternreview.com. About 15 reviews. It's funny how the big four recycle the pattern numbers. There is a New Look and another McCall's pattern with the same number. You'll see those reviews at the bottom of the linked list.
  

McCall 6513

Pattern Description:
MISSES' TOPS: Close-fitting, pullover tops have gathered front and narrow hem. B,C sleeves and C,D back collar: elasticized. Designed for lightweight to medium weight moderate stretch knits.


Pattern Sizing:
6 to 22; 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, they did. I made both long sleeves instead of 3/4 length.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy. Nothing confusing.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
There are a few things I like about the tops. First, everyone knows I am a fan of the Palmer/Pletsch fitting techniques as well as their pattern designs. I really like that the fit instructions are built in the guide sheet along with some helpful tips. I also like the ruching on the sleeves, front, side, and neck. This detail adds style to two simple knit tops. I don't have any dislike.

Fabric Used:
I used moderate knit fabrics with a pebbly texture. Both purchased at Vogue Fabrics on Roosevelt Rd.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my usual fit adjustments: FBA, swayback, and prominent shoulder blade adjustment. I also added about 1" to the length of the sleeves. My seam allowances were 1 inch plus. My FBA was a bit too much. Once I got the fit down pat, I noticed a few little wrinkles on the side of the bust (view B (blue)). But I see the same issue on the model in the orange top. For the brown top, view D, the FBA resulted in a bust dart. A horizontal swayback adjustment was not enough on the blue top. I also added vertical darts to the back to take up the bagginess in the lower back area. I always forget to mention that I use steam a seam or stitch witchery to hold my hems in place for care free hemming by machine. This method was used for the neckline of view B, hems for the sleeves and the top.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I will probably sew view C again. I especially like this style.

Conclusion: Both tops turned out great. All level sewists should be able to make these tops.

All photos on Flickr.