Thursday, May 29, 2008

New Look 6561E




Pattern Description: Pullover tops with sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: 10 -22. I used size 14; View E

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Sort of. View E looks longer and fuller on the model.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like the sleeves and the neckline.

Fabric Used: polyester georgette.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I didn't change or alter any thing. From the photo the top appeared to have a lot of ease. After completing the top, that was not the case. My version is wearable, but I should have added length and width. The neckline is very low in the back, which is something I'm not used to. When I tried it on, I thought about gifting it to my sister. But my mom thought it looked fine. I still may pass it to her; it fits a little closer to the body than I expected.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes. I plan to, but with the changes mentioned above. And yes I would recommend it.

Conclusion: Fun top that isn't difficult to make. Don't be deceived by the photo. This top doesn't have as much style and wearing ease as illustrated.

Travel Mini Wardrobe

Finally..., I'm able to post some of the sewing projects that I have completed over the past month and half. The pictures still aren't that great but good enough to get an idea of how well the projects turn out.

As mentioned earlier, me and two colleagues will be travel to Naples, Florida, for a conference soon. I wanted to have a few pieces to complement some outfits that I ready have. I used M5597 to make the pants. Then I picked several top patterns to make the five tops shown. I probably won't take everything, but wanted enough to pick and choose from. I didn't create this mini wardrobe to compete in a wardrobe contest. My only goal was to create some comfortable piece to take on this trip as I will spend a lot of time sitting, learning, and talking about our vendor's product.



Tan and white top is made from Simplicity 4076. This pattern has been reviewed on PR many times and is one of my favorites. I've made view D and view A several times with only slight modifications.



I used Kwik Sew 3378 for the white and blue tops. Another one of my favorites. This makes the four and fifth version of this fav.








Simplicity 5875, view F with sleeve from view D. I didn't do my usual FBA on any of the tops. Most of the knit used had at least 30 percent stretch in them so I thought I could for-go the FBA. This turned out fine for the most part, except for the yellow matte jersey top. I noticed a few drag lines from the bust to the lower trunk area.



This woven top is made from New Look 6561. This is a wearable muslin. I expected more ease (style and wear). I'll try this one again.

I hope to make one jacket from either of these patterns this weekend.






My full review on Patternreview.comm.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Sizing Up A Pattern - M4817




My friends sister asked me to make this skirt several weeks ago. Being an unexperienced fabric and pattern shopper, she inadvertently picked up the wrong size. So I had to scale the pattern size up to her body measurement. Occasionally, I find myself doing this type of pattern alteration when my/the size is sold out or the pattern is from the period when there was only one size included in the envelope.

There is how I did:





I evenly divide the needed amount at the seam allowance. This technique is easily done for skirts and pants, but can be a little tricky for blouses, dresses and jackets. But it's doable. It just takes a little time.


The finished skirt. She's a happy lady.



Butterick 4978 - View B & McCall's M5093 View E


Dress talk

I purchased this pattern last year not knowing when I would make it, but knew I'd make it some day.

It's still relatively cool in Chicago. Average temperature is 60 degrees. And when it gets hot, every building will be freezing. I made McCall's 5093 to wear with it.



Forgive the facial expression. This was the best photo of all taken with the jacket and dress.


Pattern Description: MISSES’ DRESS: Semi-fitted, flared, lined dress, below mid-knee or above ankle has bodice with neck binding, front opening slit and slightly cut-a-way armholes, midriff, bias skirt and back zipper. B: tie ends.

Pattern Sizing: 8-22. I made size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The dress did look like the pattern illustration.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes. No problems. The instructions (4, 12 & 31) for finishing the darts, seams of the bodice and skirt lining I didn’t particularly care for. I followed them for the darts, but I decided not to for the side seams. I overlocked the seam allowances instead of stitching two seams and trimming the excess.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Like: the feminine style of this dress. No dislikes.

Fabric Used: polyester georgette from Vogue Fabrics. I purchased the floral last year at the end of the season sale for $1.99/yd. White georgette was used for the lining and underlining.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: Alterations: I altered the four bodice pieces: the FBA and broad shoulders. I added a few inches to the length of the skirt.



Design Changes: These are design misfortunes. I don't know how I did it, but I had two accidents while making this dress. First, mistook the stitching line at the center front opening for the cutting line. So the opening is off by 1/8 inch. Then while trimming the skirt and lining to an even length I accidentally cut too much off the lining. The dress is wearable, but these mistakes almost made me give up on the finishing the project. Now "real" design changes: I eliminated the belt loops on the side of the midriff. I didn't think they would add any value. There is one thing I notice, though, the belt doesn't stay in place. Looking at the model, her belt is tightly tied around the waist. Second, this fabric is very sheer so I decided to underline the bodice to eliminate the "see-through" affect.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not. I have hundreds of dresses to try.


Conclusion: Pretty feminine dress that would be a nice addition to most wardrobes. It's not difficult to sew and I would recommend it to others.

Jacket talk - Another view



Another forgive..., the unhappy smile. This was a difficult photoshoot.


Pattern Description: JUNIORS’ LINED JACKETS: Fitted, lined jacket, above waist has princess seams, shoulder pads, with or without collar, and sleeve and length variations; jackets B, D, E have purchased trim.

Pattern Sizing: 15/16 which is equivalent to size Misses 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, as for as the style lines.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were easy to follow, but I chose to follow a slightly different method. Instead of leaving an opening at the bottom of the jacket, I partially sewed the back center seam (3" at the top and 2" at the bottom). Attached the jacket (circumstance) completely to the lining. Pressed seam allowance toward the lining and understitched. Next I pulled the sleeves through the opening and sewed the lining at the lower edge of the sleeve. Pulled them back to the right side; pressed. Closed the CB seam by stitching seam allowance together on the right side.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Nothing to dislike. Simple jacket. Wardrobe builder.

Fabric Used: Left over medium weight linen (about 1 yard). I purchased it at Vogue Fabrics. I pre-washed and dried it. Lining: polyester purchased at JoAnn's Fabrics. I buy white and black lining in bulk when it's on sale. So it's always on hand.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: FBA and broad shoulder adjustment. At the bottom edge (back) I tapered the seam allowances to 12/13 to eliminate the gapping at the bottom back. Design changes: I didn't add the trim. I wanted to be able to wear this jacket with other coordinates.




Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably. Yes.

Conclusion: This is a nice wardrobe builder. The jacket can be worn with various outfits. In the summer I always wear or carry a jacket. Every commercial, public, private building has the air conditioning on "north pole" setting and I can't stand it.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Memorial Week End - ReCap

I hope everyone had a great holiday weekend. Long weekends are such a treat. I’m always grateful for an extra day off work.

Weekend Re-cap:

Thursday I received an invite to the Friday night Kanye West (with featured artists Rihanna, NERD, and Lupe Fiasco) concert. This was definitely not my scene. There are only a few rap artists that I like: Grand Master Flash, Curtis Blow, Will Smith, Common. .., I’m so old school. Any way…, Kanye West did his thing! He is definitely a showman.

Saturday: A little shopping, cooking, cleaning, and sewing.

JoAnn’s and Hancock’s had pattern sales. I picked up ten or so. It’s crazy because I’m supposed to be on a pattern diet. Lol I was able to get five tops made over the weekend: four knit and one woven. The only one that I will review is the woven. The others have been reviewed on Patternreview many times already. Most of them I've made at least twice before. These tops are options for the Naples, Florida mini-wardrobe. So far, I’ve finished three pairs of pants and the five tops. If time permits I want to make one jacket. The plan is to take a few of the new pieces to compliments two suits that are already in the suitcase. The attire for the meeting is business casual. I really don’t need to “suit up” for the conference as I’m not a presenter; my boss is.

Sunday: Church, cooking and sewing.

Monday: DD and I had a photo shoot of all the pieces including a jacket, suit, and dress. Unfortunately, most of the photos aren’t good. So we have to redo them. I was hoping to post them today. Tonight, if I’m not too tired will re-take a few.

In the afternoon we had a family Bar-b-que at my sister’s home to celebrate my niece’s 13th birthday. Great time with the family.


Happy Sewing!
C

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Adding Rhinestones as an Embellishment

Yesterday, everyone asked how did I attach rhinestones to the bolero jacket in the previous post?

My response:

I hand sewed the rhinestones on. The rhinestones come linked by very heavy white thread. Each link has space enough between to stitch. I use the same color thread as the garment or filament thread so it will easily blend in. At the ends, I pull a few rhinestone off the chain and fold back the thread then glue them to the back of the chain. Where the two ends meet, I try to secure as well as possible to the garment. I also try to put the joining ends in a place on the garment that isn't highly visible.



There are a variety of rhinestones trim that you can purchase. Some come with stiff netting attached that can be sewed between the dress and lining or facing. This type is more difficult to sew. It's hard to get close to the stones without breaking needles.

If anyone has more suggestions, please feel free to comment.

Thanks,
C

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

No Prom Dresses for Me This Year

Over the years, I have made many prom dresses for friends, family, and referred clients. This year I chose to pass up the excitement. Last week I heard a few reports on "Prom Dresses Gone Wrong". When I take on a prom dress project, I try to stress to the young lady that the prom is a princess ball and the style of the dress should be in line with "princess" and should be flattering for "their" body type and structure. Most of the time the talk hits home, but there have been an occasion or two where it didn't.

In celebration of prom dressmaking, here are a few dresses for which I sewed and was very pleased with the results. So many I didn't take pictures of due to exhaustion or relief that everything turned out well.

I made this dress (garter) for my baby sister. Currie Prom 1992. This dress worked me, but it turned out beautifully. I was careful to follow the instructions given. There were a lot of new techniques involved with making this dress. The detachable skirt required netting between the lining and the skirt. It was completely concealed. I think the bodice was one of my first attempts at underlining. I took me about 30 hours to make this dress.





Me Attaching skirt to dress. I put hooks and eyes on each side of the dress to attach the skirt. My DD blotted out the background of this picture. The room was a hot mess. lol





I used the top of one pattern and the bottom of the other to get the desired style for the next prom dress. Fitting this dress was a challenge because the pattern style and sizing was slightly different so I had to blend the pieces together. Ms. LCD wanted the dress to "sparkle" a little. So I added rhinestones across the waist and hip area. These were glued on one by one.






Ms DH wanted a simple classic dress. This one fit the bill. I also made a shawl and purse (not shown).






Finally, my DD..., I made the dress, jacket, and garter. Of course I have more photos of DD's prom dress. Too many to post though.









Happy Sewing!
C

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