Summery Pleated Top - Vogue V1387

Pattern Description:  Misses' top:  top has self-lined yokes, front pleats, shaped hemline, and very narrow hem.  A, front longer than back and B, back longer than front, wrong side shows,  A: mock wrap, pullover, fitted through bust, no shoulder seams, elasticized tie ends for casing, underarm inset, and armhole bands.  B:  loose-fitting, collar, front bands with snap closing, and long sleeves with pleats, placket and snaps cuffs.  I made view A.

Pattern Sizing:  Size groups (6-14) (16-22)  I used size 16 with modifications.  See previous posts for more information.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, for the most part.  I added two pleats and lengthen the hem a bit. 

 

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical.  The only little hiccup was inserting the the gusset at the lower armhole.  It is important to mark as indicated and sew the exact seam allowance throughout.  For the hem, I never follow the instruction for that.  I stitch two rounds to make the hem.  first round sew hem at 1/8" trim where necessary.  Then, I turn the hem and repeat, no trimming.  This gives me a clean, nice finished rolled hem.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the style of the top.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  The fabric feels much like a rayon challis, but it doesn't press as easy.  So, I suspect that it is a blend.  I really like it doesn't wrinkle easy.  I purchased it at Hobby Lobby last year.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  See this post for alterations/adjustments.  Additionally, I made adjustments to the placement of the gathers across the back for better fit near the arm area.  Second, I think the placement of the pleats can also be adjusted to fall more over the bust area. Finally, I added the same width to the lower portions of the top to match the width of the upper bodice.  

Extra:  I shorten the recommended elastic length and made the ties longer. 

 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I plan to make it again soon.  And yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: I'm happy with how this top turned out.  It was fairly easy to sew.  This top can be worn during the warmer alone: Or it can be worn in the cooler months layered with a cardigan or jacket. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1387

Today, I wanted to share a few notes on Vogue V1387, view A.  This pattern has been in my collection for a several years.  I hesitated to attempt to make the full bust adjustment (FBA).  I thought about it and determine the following would be the way to go.  There is probably a more effective solution, but this is how I chose to tackle the fit adjustment.

I started with slashing the upper bodice vertically from the pleated area to the waist, adding paper to fill the space.

Next, I added length by slashing the front bodice horizontally.  The same amount of length was added to the back upper bodice (not shown).

Then, I redistributed the pleats and the space between them.  Now, there are three pleats instead of two.

After making these adjustments, I made a muslin to check the fit.  When I tried on the muslin, I identified a few more adjustments needed.  NOTE:  don't skip sewing the armband and gusset. It will help you determine if there is a good fit in the armhole and bust and upper back areas.

Additional adjustments after fitting the muslin:

• more vertical width (front bodice) resulting in a fourth pleats.
• more vertical width across the back.  I noticed pull at the shoulder blades.
• added tuck in the yoke at the upper back.
• added length where the shoulder seam would be.
• reduced fullness at the lower back just above the waist.

More later.

Happy Sewing!

C