Friday, May 10, 2019

Notes on a Pattern - Simplicity 8891

In my last post I mentioned that I had completed several pattern adjustments.  These were done in preparation for my spring and summer projects.  Most are dresses. 

Today I want to talk about one that I am anxious to start sewing. 

Notes on a pattern:  Simplicity 8891

My fabric is lovely, warm beige and ivory Bengal striped stretch polyester twill #325805.  It's still available online. 

This is a cute little dress has buttons down the front, with tucks in the front and back near the waist. Cut-on sleeves with sleeve bands, in-set pockets and a wide belt to complete the look.   It's a good pattern to play around with stripes.  And of course, I chose a striped fabric to make my dress.  The short set is cute too.  I'm thinking of making it as well. 

I didn't make a muslin because there is so much style ease across the bodice.  So I thought I could skip the muslin fitting.  In my opinion, this will be a somewhat relaxed look.

On the front, I made a little FBA.  I probably could have gotten away with not making one.  But I didn't want to take any chances on the hem of the dress not being even due to needed length/width in the bust area.  First I cut off the sleeve to make the FBA.  This adjustment added about 1/2" change in the sleeve/armhole area.  That's more room for a full bust.  There is a slight overlap on the side to eliminate the bust dart.  I'm trying something new hear.  Hopefully, it will work out.  For the shoulder and sleeve seam, I meant to adjust it for a slightly forward shoulder before the picture.  In the next, picture you can see that I added the needed room for my back.

For the back, I made a prominent shoulder blade adjustment.  I don't think I like a dart here.  I'll see if I can ease the 3/4" vs. making the shoulder dart.  To eliminate the extra width in the waist area, I will make deeper tucks.  Next, I made a swayback adjustment at the waistline and added the length of the tuck to the bottom of the back.  There is a center back seam, which is perfect for me.  Both the swayback tuck and the center back seam produce and great fit along the lower back area. 

The front and back lower panels have been adjusted accordingly.  So that the width matches the width of the respective pattern pieces.   So this weekend I plan to make my dress.  More later.

Parting Shot:  My McCall 7254 Jacket/Cardigan.  I added a closure to the front.  It really completes this jacket.  The quilted fabric is warm and can be worn fall and early winter as outwear.

Happy Sewing and Have a great Mother's Day weekend!

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