Friday, January 10, 2025

The Not So Famous Jacket - Simplicity S9227









This is one I really did not like how it turned out.  I tried and tried to make it work, but...,  I think it me though.  It's in how it looks on me. 

So here goes my pattern review of Simplicity S9227.  



Pattern Description:  Simplicity's says Misses' jacket and pants.  I'll add:  it is a princess seam style jacket, unlined.  On the model, the sleeve cap does not sit exactly on the ball of the shoulder.  

Pattern Sizing:  The pattern is available in sizes 8 to 26.  I used size 16 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it does for the most part.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, nothing confusing in them.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I do not like the look on me after I made all of the fit alterations.   The princess seam sit more on the side of the body than normal. I think the problem with the "look" is more related to the position of the princess seam and being full busted.  Also, I did not like how the sleeve and arm syce are drafted.  It just does not look good or wear well to me. 





Fabric Used:  I purchased this suiting fabric from the Textile Warehouse a few years ago.  It is a twill like weave..  I thought it was perfect for this pattern.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I made most of my usual upper body fit adjustments:  FBA, broad shoulders, and lengthen the sleeves.    Sorry, I didn't take pictures of the alterations.  I even made a muslin.  I added Dior darts on the front in hopes of improving the look of the jacket.  No luck.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  I will not sew this again.  I'm putting the jacket in my donation bag.  I've enough time on it.  Plus, I have so many jacket patterns to try.  If you are thinking about trying this pattern, please make a muslin and make sure it fits perfect (just the way you like it) before cutting into your fashion fabric.

Conclusion:  This jacket really didn't work for me.  Try it with caution.  Make a muslin first.  Side note:  in the photos I'm also wearing a new molly t-shirt.  I have made so many of these.  This is a highly recommended pattern.  It is great for a quick sewing project.




More 2024 to come.

 


Drapery Cowl Knit Top - McCall M7194







You can never have too many tops.  Especially, comfortable ones.  Today's first pattern review is on McCall's M7194.  Another older pattern that has been in my collection for nearly ten years.  The great thing about this one is that it is a modern day classic style with an "edgy" twist. Lol

It sews up pretty much like a basic t-shirt pattern with the exception of the lower section and the hemline.


Pattern Description:  Misses' tops:  close-fitting pullover tops have hemline variations and stitched hem on sleeves.  B:  Cut on crosswise grain, lower sections out on bias grain.  C:Lower band with left side slit.  A, B, C:  Collar D: Neckband, flounce, wrong side may show.  A, B, D:  Narrow hem.


Pattern Sizing:  XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL.   I used size medium grading it up between medium and large.  Note:  I added slightly more wide, rounded at the bust area, not much though.  My fabric has a lot of stretch in it. 












Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, it did.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, simple.  Nothing confusing in them.  This top really sews up fast with the most time spent on setting the sleeves in and getting the hem just right.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I like the cowl, hemline and lower section variation.  No dislikes.

Fabric Used:  This smooth hand knit has about 50 percent stretch and was very easy to work with.  As with most projects, I pre-washed my fabric (sometimes I forget to say that.).  I purchased it at New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  No serious alterations.  I lengthen the sleeve a bit and added some width at the bust area.  I attempted to align the window panes of the upper and lower sections of the bodies, but I missed that (one section cut crosswise and the other on the bias).  Also, I noticed a little too much ease in the sleeve cap.  So, it is a good idea to check it and maybe decrease it a little for a smooth finish.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  I could use a few more of these.  I'll make view B again as well as view D.  This is an easy pattern.  I think all level sewists can make it without any problems.

Conclusion:   I enjoyed making and wearing this top (Fall 2024 make).  It is super comfy.  Great for those potentially lazy days of winter.  It also great for running errands and pairing with your favorite leggings or jeans.

Happy Sewing!
C


Thursday, January 9, 2025

McCall M7978 - Blouse From Muslin to Fashion Fabric





In the Spring I posted this "Notes on a Pattern - McCall M7978" with all the details on the fit adjustments.  It took six months to finally make the blouse.  So here it is with a full pattern review.


Pattern Description: 
Misses' tops:  Tops A, B, C, D have gathered front and back, self faced yoke, button and loop closures, forward shoulder seams and gathered sleeve variation and band.  B: Flounce, A, B, C: Cuffs.  D: Sleeve hand, neckband and ties in one.  I made view B with modifications.

Pattern Sizing:  I used size 16 with modifications and fit adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes, for the most part.  I didn't have enough fabric for the tie.






Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, the instructions were typical and nothing difficult or confusing in them. 





What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  There several things that I like about this blouse.  For starters:  the neckline and the midriff.  I also like the tie and the full sleeve of A.  I'm hope to make view A with a tie and the flounce of view B.  

My only dislike is the front closure.  This is a very easy fit, though.  I simply built in a little more width across the front to overlap the button area.  So the placement of the buttons is an inch from the front edge. 


Fabric Used:  One of my dear friends' mom passed and she gifted me with some of her fabrics.  This is a paisley print cotton.  It has a smooth hand, and it sews and presses beautifully.  The yardage was about a yard and a half.  So I was unable to include the tie for this version.  Next time. :-)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  All of my fit adjustments  are noted in my "Notes on a Pattern" posted in May 2024.  See link above.  

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I plan to make at least one more version.  Also, mentioned above.  And yes, I do recommend this pattern with modifications based on the sewist's body shape and preferences.  You can mix and match the design elements to your liking.

Conclusion:  This pattern has a few different style options and the "V" neck is great for us busty ladies.  Be careful with the placement of the buttons and the depth of the "V".  The closure as is may gap open and "V" is very low.





All level sewists should be able to make this blouse.  It is definitely more than your average wardrobe builder top. ;-)





Happy Sewing!
C

 

Wrap Top- Butterick B5101








This wrap top was made in October 2024.  It has been on my "to make" list for ages.  Butterick B5101 Lifestyle Wardrobe pattern, with several views to literally make a complete wardrobe with endless outfit options.  The copyright year is 2007.  So it is OOP.



Pattern Description:  Misses' top, dress, skirt and pants:  wrap front top and dress have all-in-one sleeve, pleated collar extending into front neckline, side tie, sleeve length and hem variations.  Mock wrap front skirt and straight leg pants have casing and elastic yoke.


Pattern Sizing:  SX, S, M, L, XL .  I used size medium grading it up somewhere between a medium and large with fit adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  Yes,  my top does look like the drawing on the envelope.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  The instructions were typical, but not difficult to follow.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I liked that it is a wrap top/dress with some pleating around the mid section with a tie.  

I do have a few dislikes, though.  The tie is slightly wider than what I'd like for this top/dress.  And I prefer it to be a little longer since I'm so tall.  My other dislikes is the thickness of the belt loop.  It could be thinner.  I'll make these adjustments on my next version, which is already in the making. :-)  No other dislikes.





Fabric Used:  My knit jersey came from New Rainbow Fabrics on Roosevelt Road in Chicago.  It is a vibrant tomato red with a dry hand.  It is easy to work with and is wrinkle free.  I pre-washed and dried it as soon as I bought it home.






Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  Okay, it may be boring, but I had to make my usual full bust adjustment.    Definitely necessary for the level of stretch of my fabric choice and the style of the top.  Because the sleeve is cut-on, I started the process with removing the sleeve.  Then I made the FBA.  Finally, reattaching the sleeve. See the photo below for the finished fit adjustment. Also, I lengthen the sleeve by an inch.  




Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I will.  I'm in the process of making the pants and the top.  I hope to finish it by the end of this week.  If this is your style, of course, I recommend it.  The pattern is easy to sew and it offers a lot of style options in one pattern.

Conclusion:  This is a good wardrobe pattern that offers many outfit options.  It is easy to sew for all level sewists.  The hem of the top/dress may be a little challenging for beginners, but doable.  Take your time.




Happy Sewing!
C

Happy New Year!



Happy New Year everyone!

Here we are nine days into the new year.  It's great to be alive and well.  I hope everyone had a fantastic holiday season.  It's one of the busy time of year; but it is a good time of year at least for me and my family.  I always look forward to spending time with family.

This month I plan to post the last projects of 2024 on my blog starting today.  I just didn't make time for it during the holiday season.  So, I'm playing catch up again.  I probably won't do a year review for 2024 as I want to start on projects for this year and there is only so much time to do that.

Anyway, stay tune for my projects made from October to December 2024.  Some good and others not so good.



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