Vintage McCall's Bomber Jacket M7203 and Vogue Jogging Pants V8909

One of the things that I love to do sometimes is mix and match patterns.  In this case, I used the bomber jacket of a vintage McCall's pattern V7203 and Vogue 8909 jogging pants.

I first planned to make the bomber jacket about a year and half ago, but I never got around to it until now.  Sure, I purchased McCall's bomber jacket from last year, but I liked this one better.  The vintage pattern has two options for making the collar, waistband, and wristbands: one for ribbed knit and the other the same fashion fabric as the jacket (collar and wristband cut on the bias - the waistband with rows of elastic inserted between channel stitches.)

Here are my reviews for the McCall 7203 bomber jacket and the Vogue 8909 jogging pants:

McCall 7203 Bomber Jacket

Pattern Description: Jacket has separating zipper and long sleeves with elasticize waistband, cuffs and neckband. 

Pattern Sizing:  6-16; My pattern was size 16, copyright 1980.  Only one size per envelope during that time.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes it did. 

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes the instructions were easy to follow.  When I opened the envelope to review them, I had to chuckle.  This pattern is almost 36 years old.  The guide sheet has colored illustrations.  Unlike the guide sheets on today.  The blue indicates the right side of the fabric.  The pattern pieces are also different, having large print and numbers to indicate notches and layout instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the option of having the entire jacket had in the fashion fabric and the instructions on how to do so.  Also, bomber jackets are on trend.  No real dislikes.

Fabric Used:  I purchased this lovely faux ultra suede from JoAnn's.  The chestnut or cinnamon color is also on trend.  This warm color is perfect for my skin tone.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn't make any changes.  The pattern is a size 16.  So I thought it should be okay across the bust and shoulder areas. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, I want to sew it again, but in a mesh or lacy fabric.  I noticed some pull at the neck area.  So I will address that before I do so.  And, I think I will add a few inches more to the length of the waistband elastic as it pull a little more than I'd like it to.  I do recommend the construction technique to other.  You should be able to use a more recent pattern to get the same results by cutting the fabric for the collar and wristband on the bias; also by adding the elastic to the waistband with channel stitches.

I really enjoyed making this jacket.

Vogue 8909 Jogging Pants

Pattern Description: Fitted (below waist) pants have elastic waistband and purchased ribbon drawstring, yoke back, side-front seams, no side seams, and side-front pockets. A, B: Elasticized leg bands. B, C: Stitched hems.  I had view B lengthening the pant leg by a few inches.

Pattern Sizing:  4-26; I used size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, they did except I eliminated the draw string and only did two rows of elastic instead of three.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Nothing difficult about them.  Simple.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the back yoke, pocket placement, mock fly, and front/side seaming.  My only dislike was the length as shown on the model.  I like my pant a little longer.  In this case I over compensated by a inch or so. Next time I won't add as much length to them.

Fabric Used: I used a lovely faux ultra suede from JoAnn's.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  The only changes to the pants were: eliminated the draw string, only inserted two rows of elastic instead of three, and lengthen the pant leg.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, and yes.  This will be my go to jogging pant pattern.

So there you have it.  My new bomber jacket and jogging pants outfit.   They can be worn together or with other coordinates.

Happy Sewing!
C

Blocked in Vogue 1329 Kay Unger

Color blocked dresses are still on trend. White and black are very popular this season. Initially, I thought I'd take a pass on the Kay Unger black and white dress, but after a conversation with Sandra Young (HCC), I decided to give it a try. Then I questioned whether or not I wanted another black dress as I have four in my closet ready. So I followed Erica B's lead making the dress in the opposite color combination.

Vogue 1329  

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS: Close-fitting, lined dress (fitted through hips) has yokes, right front with pleats, back princess seams, and invisible zipper.

 

Pattern Sizing:
8 to 24; I used size 14 with modifications.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for the switch in the color combination.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow.

 

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the pleating across the front of the dress and the color blocked style. No real dislike, but when this pattern was first released, I thought I'd pass on it because the Figure Flattery symbol did not include my body shape. In hind sight, I still think the girls are way out there in this dress.

Fabric Used:
My fabric is a stretch woven gabardine from Hancock's. It sewed together with no problem. The stretch in it is almost non-existent. The lining is poly/cotton blend that I got from Vogue.

 

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made my usual alterations:
FBA - I rotated the dart into the three lower front pleats. The lining is princess seam. So I followed standard Palmer-Pletsch adjustment for that.
Swayback adjustment - folded out the excess along the lower center back and curved out that same section of the back for a closer fit.
Lengthen - as usual added a few inches to the hem. I wanted the hem to be mid knee.
Broad Shoulder adjustment and rise the underarm hole about 1/2 inch to ensure full coverage.

 
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm not sure. If I do, I think I'll extend the yoke past the bust area for a more flattering look. Yes, I do recommend it to others.

Conclusion: This is a fairly easy trendy dress to sew. Happy Sewing! C

Vintage Vogue 8850 - Ms. Paulette's Frock

It's been so long since I blogged anything.  But today I decided to publish this review no matter what. It is has been one thing after another.  Each time I see a small window of time to write or post about sewing or fashion, something more important gobbles it up before I can even start. Today I'm determined to restart my blogging activities.

I miss keeping up with everyone's sewing projects and posts about current fashion trends. There are only a few more weeks of school. I decided not to take a summer course, but will resume my studies in the fall. This will give me some time to sew and beef up my wardrobe. I'm excited about my comeback! ;-)

Let's get down to business. I think it was February when Ms. Paulette Bell asked me to make her annual pastoral dinner frock. This is yearly commission. My two favorites are here and here.

Vogue 8850 

Pattern Description:
MISSES' DRESS AND BELT: Dress has fitted bodice, right front drape extending into tab with button trim, left drape, panel (wrong side may show) attached at waist, loose-fitting skirt, side snap or zipper closing and belt.

Pattern Sizing:
This pattern comes in sizes 8 to 24. I did have to make some modifications which I will talk about in the alterations and design changes section of this review.


 Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it did. This is quite an attractive dress. I love the drama that the long drape gives.  I thought the drape was one continuous pieces of fabric. Not the case. The first section is part of the right bodice, then section to drapes across the bodice is a separate part, and finally the drape from the waist down is a triangle to is joined at the under-side to form a cylinder. It's interesting how this small design and construction step creates a different affect in the movement of the drape. You don't have the ends of the two sides flouncing all over this place. It moves gracefully with the skirt of the dress. I love this design element.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were easy to follow.  At first glance the construction of the bodice and the drape seemed difficult to manage, but once I started following the instructions, I had no problem. As a precautionary measure I left all of the stitching to form the gathers in until I was sure the fit was right for Ms. Bell.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
For me, I simply love the style of this dress. It was perfect for the occasion and Ms. Bell looked fabulous in it. The pattern cover version doesn't do justice to the design of the dress. The line drawing gives a much better view of the details in the design. I really don't have any dislikes. Nor did Ms. Bell.

Fabric Used:
Ms. Bell chose a tangerine crepe back satin, which is the first fabric recommended for the dress. It was perfect for the design. However, I hate working with it because of the "snagibility". You must be extra, extra careful when sewing this fabric. I found myself filing my nails before each sewing session. There is no need for lining and interfacing. All that is needed is fabric, zipper, thread, and patience (gathering of the drape).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
There were a few alterations necessary to get a good fit. That's always expected. I did make a muslin, which identified all the points of change. Initially, I cut a straight size 18. The first change was the lower bodice through the hips. I adjusted the size in these areas to a size 20 to the hem of the skirt. Then the upper arm required a little more tailoring, and I reduce the sleeve cap by a 1/2 inch. The next change was at the back neckline. There was a little gapping at the base of the neck. I chose to make deeper darts (1/8"). But in retrospect, I should have done a small upper round adjustment. Finally, I installed an invisible zipper and eliminated the side facing. I did not use any hem tape or seam binding. I just did clean serging on the sleeves and skirt, then hemmed them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would love to make this for myself in a mint green. And yes, I do recommend it to others. This is a lovely dress.

Conclusion: This is a very attractive vintage dress that was not difficult to sew. Like most commercial patterns, you will more than likely have to make some adjustments based on your body shape.