It's Too Cold To Breathe - Simplicity S9388

 

My Goodness! It's been too cold to breathe outside.  Last week was so  cold with many days at sub-zero temperatures.  This week's forecast is no better.  We were hoping that Saturday would be "not as cold".  No such luck.  In fact, it had started to snow as we headed outside to take the pictures.  My goal was to get it done so  we braved the cold to finish this chapter of the shacket.  Once outside, it felt like I didn't have on a coat.  Luckily, we were only outside for a few minutes.

Early last year, Rhonda and I decided to do a challenge in time for the HCC fashion show in May.   She gifted me the pink wool.  We used Simplicity S9388.  This pink version is my third shacket using this pattern.  

I decided to elevate the "look" a bit by installing a full lining and adding beads to the pocket flaps.  I think it turned out well.

Construction changes:

• Because I added lining, I hemmed the shacket like a basic lined coat.  I added interfacing to the hem for stability.  Tip:  I used my cardboard guide to get a nice even hem.

• I used lining fabric for the under side of the flap to reduce bulk.

• Adjusted the size of the cuffs and pleats on the sleeve.  The cuffs are still too wide and the sleeve is really to full.  But both things I can live with.

The making of this shacket was a fun project. This shade of pink isn't the best pink for my skin tone.  It looks great on my sister.  So, I decided to gift her this shacket.

I crocheted a slouchy beanie to wear with it.

Parting Shots:  The first two shackets that I made a few years ago.  You can see all of my shacket post here. 

Happy Sewing!

C

Easter Dress for DD - Simplicity 8015

Its been awhile since I made by DD a dress.  Lately she has been more interested in casual pieces.  So it was a surprise to me when she asked me to make her what we call a "princess dress".  So,I paired Simplicity Project Runway pattern S8015 with Mood's exclusive "The Snail's Bounty Stretch Cotton #MD0107".  The fabric is something a little different from the usual brocade or silk fabrication.

This is a simple dress with princess seams, full skirt, and 3/4 length sleeves, with front and back facings to finished the bodice of the dress.  My preference is to completely line it.  So I did by adding lining to the facings and cutting the skirt lining the same as the skirt. 

The pattern comes in sizes 4 to 20.  I used size 12 with modifications.   My dress did look similar to view D without the contrast. 

My fit changes included a small FBA.  DD has a pigeon chest that is slightly rounded just above the bust area.  I also made square shoulder and swayback adjustments.  Finally, I lengthen the skirt of the dress about two inches.

The construction of the dress was easy and the instructions typical.  Of course, I changed a few things to suit my own taste.  The dress is completely lined except for the sleeves.  I hand picked the zipper and added seed beads.  I thought about adding a few beads to the eye for the snails on the bodice.  But by the time I finished hand stitching the lining to the zipper, waist and hemming the full skirt, I decided to press it and hand it over to the little lady.  It was Easter Eve and she wore this dress to church the very next day.

There are no real dislike about the style or construction of the dress.  No over the top likes either.  What I like is princess seams, which makes fitting a lot easier and a full skirt.  This is a good look for DD.

The snail fabric has a slight sheen to it.  The name includes stretch, but it really didn't have stretch in it, to me.  Not like a typical stretch woven.  To finish the dress, I used ivory pongee non-static lining from Vogue Fabrics in Evanston.  Both were easy to sew and press.

This is a easy dress to sew.  The seaming makes it easy to fit as well.  The style is basic and  you can mix and match the bodice, skirt and sleeve with other patterns.  I could make it again to get some mileage out of the fit adjustments made.  Will I use it again?  Maybe.  Do I recommend it to others?  Yes.

In conclusion, the little lady is happy.  I was happy to make it for her.  It looks great on her.  That's it, that's all.

Happy Sewing!
C

Burda Style Boyfriend Coat - Coats in March Part II

Coat number two.  This coat is so for right now.

I'm batting a 100 with my selecting fabrics from Mood.  I've had nothing but success and happiness when I select a textiles and other goodies from Mood.  My coat is made of Mood's Infinity Black and Multi-Color Gray/Black Abstract.  I purchased this about two years ago, but was undecided about what kind of coat to make.  I chose this fabric because of it's unique texture and weave.  I love combining classic styles with interesting fabrics. This one has a lot of body.  It's a looser ropy weave with a slightly rough hand.  When cut, it unravels like a jacquard.  So you need to finish the edges or sew it up quick.  It presses easy and is easy to mold into shape.  If you are so inspired to make a coat, here is a link to some gorgeousness.

The upper collar of my coat is Mood's Faux Black Bear Fur (#312623).  Sorry it's no longer in stock.  But come fall you may be able to see it again at the online store.  It's thick, soft and shiny.  It feels wonderful against my skin.  Here is a link to a variety of Faux Fur. There is so many styles and choices to choose from.

To cut the faux fur, I used a single edge razor blade instead of scissors.  First, I started by trace the pattern onto the wrong side of the fur with tailor chalk.  Then I used the razor to cut out the upper collar.  This method reduces the amount of cut fur.  After sewing the upper and under collars together, I used a straight pin to pick out the fur caught in the stitches.

The lining is Canary/Rose iridescent twill lining.  (#FN26445).  You can't go wrong with Mood's twill lining.  I order it all the time to line coats, dresses, skirts.  You name it.

This is the second coat that I made using Burda Style 6462.  You can find some of the basic pattern details here on my blog.

for this view, I only made a few minor changes:

• Lengthen the sleeves 1"
• Lengthen the coat by a few 1"
• I used Diane's hemming technique from her YouTube tutorial

This pattern is perfect for that desired boyfriend coat that you've been wanting to make.  One of the things that drew me to this pattern was the welt pockets and another opportunity to practice making them.

For the buttonholes, I did two applications per buttonhole to help reduce the chance of fraying.  Then I generously applied Fray Check allowing it to dry over night before cutting the buttonholes open.  It worked like a charm.

I'm going to get a lot of wear out of this beauty.  Starting this spring! ;-)

Happy Sewing!
C