Tutorial: Lowering The Dart After Making A Full Bust Adjustment on McCall 7575

This post is to illustrate how to do a FBA on a regular one piece front pattern for a shirt.  Last week I purchased McCall 7575 Palmer Pletsch pattern because of the style lines.  The illustration shows a "fit and flare" silhouette.  Secondly, the use of the striped fabric is appealing to me.  The front band and the cuffs are cut on the bias.  I wouldn't have thought to do that for fear of the fabric stretching.  Thirdly, the sleeve is a two piece sleeve, more commonly seen in jackets.  

Anyway, I wanted to share the process of doing a FBA and lowering a dart with a slight rotation. This first picture shows the pattern envelope over the front with the FBA.

Step 1 - Slash the pattern along lines 1, 2, and 3.  Then spread the appropriate amount based on your measurement.  If the width needed is more than an inch, consider using the second leg of line 1 to create a "Y" as illustrated below.  Fill the areas with tissue paper and tape to hold the adjustment in place.  I typical don't redraw the vertical waist dart until I test to see where the dart should be placed.  In this case I may make two darts instead of one.

Step 2 - Once that is done, test to see where the bust dart falls by placing the tissue pattern against your body.  Determine how much you need to move the dart.  On the cutting table, draw three lines around the dart.  Then cut along those lines.

Step 3 -  Move the dart to the appropriate location on the front shirt.  This step will leave an opening in the tissue pattern. Before taping the dart in place, determine how you want the dart to be formed and place.  I chose to slightly rotate the dart with the outer edge rotated slightly downward.

Step 5 -  Fill the open space with tissue paper and tape in place.  Next, true up the outer edge along the side.

Step 6 -  Cut away the excess tissue paper. Now you are ready to tissue fit or make a muslin.

Happy Fitting!
Cennetta

McCall 7445 Pants and Vogue 8747 Shirt

Finally, I'm posting photos of me in my new pants made using McCall 7445.  I posted way back in March (tee hee) on my fitting and sewing of these pants.  Now, that I have tweaked the pattern I'm moving this gem to my TNT basket for easy hands on access.

All of my changes are indicated in the first post.  But I'd like to state again that you may need to stitch of the vertical line of the pocket to eliminate any gapping in the tummy area.  Also, I re-enforced the pocket opening to reduce any stretching.  These pants are made of a stretch woven polyester blend, which I love.

I'm wearing my wearable muslin of Vogue 8747, View D.  I love this blouse and will be making it again very soon.  It's a winner.  This pattern has been review over and over again on blogs as well as on Patternreview.  One of best things about it is that there are separate pattern pieces for cups sizes A through D.  This made the fit process easier.

My changes were minimal:

• I made a small adjustment in the bust area by increasing the length of the front band by 1/2".
• On the front I added about 1" or so in the gathered area.  
• For the side front, I added about 1/2" width in the bust area.
• I made my usual sway back adjustment on the back and side back pieces.
• Lengthen the sleeve by 1".
• The neckline was slightly larger the than the length of the collar stand.  So I ease in the difference.
• Also, I interfaced the upper and lower front band, collar, and collar stand.

The list seems long, but the changes were really minimal. Overall, the shirt is well drafted.  The fit in the arm, chest, and neck areas is great.  At least for me.

 

I used a polyester blend that I purchased years ago from a local store.  I think Vogue, but I'm not sure.

I didn't tag it. :-(  It was easy to work with sewing wise, but difficult to press.  I'm pleased with how this shirt turned out.  Now I'm ready to make more.

These striped pants are my kick off point for adding more stripe garment to my wardrobe.  More to come on stripes and button down shirts.

Happy Sewing!

C

Notes on a Pattern: Vogue 9128

For the most part I don't like to purchase patterns that only provide a drawing of the garment.  I like to see it actually made and shown on a person.  But I thought this one was cute, and I wanted to give it a try.

What I like about it are the flounce hemline and the princess seam.  For the peri-crafters' first January challenge, I chose this top to make.  My first step was to make the pattern fit adjustments starting with a full bust adjustment (FBA).  Typically with knits I don't make the full adjustment as the knit does have some stretch.  This pattern calls for moderate stretch fabric.  My fabric has about 40 percent stretch.  When I make a FBA on a princess garment, I always have excess fabric below the bust through the hemline.    So with this top I knew I will need to eliminate the excess fabric along the sides of the top.  The amount depends on the stretch of the fabric, which I determine after sewing the front and back together at the shoulders.

I did not make any back or shoulder adjustments.  One thing I'd like to point out is the length of the shoulder seam is too long.  I believe this is something that is common in the big four pattern companies.    For me the shoulder seam is about 1/2" too long.  So I just trim that off.  Finally, I lengthen the sleeve about an inch.

The construction was simple and typical.  There is nothing confusing on the guide sheet.  I attached the neckband before sewing the side seams.  Also, I used a twin needle to finished the hem on the sleeve and the flounce.

This was a very easy sewing project.  The top goes together quickly.  I can see a few more of these in my closet.

No pictures of me wearing the top.  I hope to take some soon.

Happy Sewing!
C

 

 

McCall's 6329 - Altering the Pattern

After making observations about what needs to be altered, now I can make the pattern adjustments. Starting with the back again. I made a tuck from the neck to the hem near her spine. This tuck removes the excess in the center back.  There was excess in this area as appose to the shoulder area.  Sorry I forgot to photograph the flat pattern. But below is DD wearing the pattern with this change made.

DD has a small waist, but she is curvy in the hip area. So I added tissue along the side seam of the back. I think this works for the back of the jacket.

Next, I made a FBA. Spread the pattern the required amount, fill in with tissue paper, and tape.

The pattern center front now comes to DD's center front. (NOTE: I forgot to pin out the waist dart. Update will come in the next post.)

Next, working with the clothe.

 Happy Sewing! C