Style Maker Fabric Fall/Winter Tour

It's feeling much like fall these days.  I love the cool crisp mornings and the sunny afternoons that the Autumn season brings.  Fall also marks a new season to start a new wardrobe.  My first two fall garments are made with Style Maker Fabrics.  They have an entire store of new, beautiful textiles to start your new fall wardrobe with.

I'm new to Style Maker Fabrics.  Michelle contacted me to join the SMF Tour group and I'm glad I did.  It was a good introduction to work with her great fabric.  Through Instagram I learned about SMF and their textiles.  But had never made a purchase.  Now I will definitely use their fabrics again.

The new fall collection has so many lovely fabrics to pick from.  It was so hard for me to pick something; I wanted about 10 different fabrics at first look.  Forcing myself to select two (my choice), I focused on my color palette for fall.  Fall colors earthy; deep and vibrant colors like burnt orange, chocolate brown, firm and ever greens, and golden yellows.  These are some of my colors for fall.

I love a good print and I love sewing neoprene/scuba knit.  So, I just couldn't pass up the splattered paint rust, black, and sage scuba knit. The scuba knit was great to work with.  It has an impeccably smooth hand. The stretch is tight and great for active wear as well as fit and/or flare coordinates.  I love it.

My pattern an oldie but goodie Simplicity 1314.  I've made two other dresses using it.  So I decided to add a handpicked beaded zipper.  Luckily for me, I finished it in time to make it my annual "birthday dress".  More on pattern adjustments here. 

My second choice was a rust medium weight textured cotton cloth; soft and a dream to sew.  Amy also selected this fabric making the cutest cuffed pants.

I wanted to start by fall wardrobe sewing with a jacket/cardigan to help fight back the early morning or the night chill of the Midwestern winds.  I also wanted to make something that was special.  This fabric has a very rich color with the right and wrong sides looked the same.  So I chose a unlined jacket, Butterick 6329, view D.

This jacket is described as an unlined jacket with a snap closing.  It's relatively easy to sew and the style line is relaxed and had quite a bit of wearing ease.  I was able to skip my usual fitting adjustments only making slight changes along the side seams and adding 1/4" to the center front.  Because of the simplicity of the pattern, I decided to add something special to this piece as well.  Hong Kong finished seams was the perfect element.  This additive made the inside pop.  Every edge of the jacket sections is finished except for seam the that joins the facing to the jacket.

I really love how this jacket turned out. And I hope to make a few more possibly using the recommended medium weight moderate stretch knit fabric.  For the most part, I constructed the jacket as indicated omitting the topstitching around the front and neckline.  I did not add a snap either.  The instructions were easy and typical.  If you decide to make it, make sure you carefully mark the large circles and match them as instructed.

The sewing process was great for both projects.  I used a microtex schwertz needle, size 12. The pressing was easy and resulted in a crisp finish.  Both garments will be in high rotation this fall and winter.  I've already worn my dress on Sunday.

So in conclusion, I highly recommend that you take a look at the selection of new fall fabrics at Style Makers Fabrics.  I also recommend both patterns:  Simplicity 1314 and Butterick 6329.

Happy Sewing!
C

Maroon Double Cloth Lace - Simplicity 1314

My eyes light up with joy when I see something beautiful.  And that was exactly what happened when I saw this Maroon Double Cloth with Lace from Mood.  At first, I imagined a high-waist pencil skirt.  But when the pretty cloth arrived to my surprise the yardage was more than I requested.  It must have been the last on the roll, because it included this tag.  No matter the circumstance, I was too happy to get a little more and couldn't let it go to waste.  So I decided to make Simplicity 1314 again.

There is nothing wrong with getting a little extra mileage out of your pattern.  Especially if you've spent time making fit adjustments.  My first look made from it was "Cookie Lyons" inspired, from the hit show, "Empire".  This time I wanted a more sophisticated look.  So I paired my maroon lacy double cloth with black neoprene from a local fabric store in Chicago.

All of the descriptive information is the same as before.  I made view B. For the most part the pattern was ready to use without more adjustments.  But I did want to bring the neckline closer to base of my neck.  With most patterns I find that the necklines are very wide.  This makes it difficult to keep the garment on the hanger.  Also, I had to take it in along the sides about three more inches.

My likes for this dress are, of course, the fabric.  And all the things I mentioned in the first review.  It was even easier to sew this time.  I consider this a sloper, a basic princess seam dress that is very easy to sew.  I definitely recommend it to others and will probably sew it again for myself.

That's all for now.

Happy Sewing!
Cennetta

Notes on a Pattern - Vogue V1858

Today I want to talk about Vogue V1858.  This is one of Vogue's latest pattern releases.  It is basically a princess seam dress with a curve "V" neck front yoke and a back yoke.  Nothing really extra special.  But it has a neckline that I haven't seen.  And that is why a decided to purchase the pattern.  

I considered this to be a relatively easy dress to make.  There is no lining, it has princess seams, and it requires moderate stretch knits.  On the envelope, it indicates a sewing rating of average.  That's okay because there is an invisible zipper and the front yoke may present a little bit of a challenge to get it just right.

Vogue describes the pattern as:  Fitted dress has shaped contrast neck bands, side front and side back seams, three-quarter length set-in sleeves, invisible back zipper, hook and eye closure, stitched hems. 

I made some changes: no invisible zipper and I hand-stitched the hems.  Simple changes.  

But first, as always, I need to make sure the pattern fits.  So, immediately I made my typical adjustments.  Only later to discover that they were a bit too much.  I started by cutting size 16.  I could have used size 14.

Below are my original adjustments.  

The FBA was spot on.  But all of the added width was too much.  

The swayback adjustment was good too.  This time I added the amount removed to the hip area instead of at the hem.  Now this area seems to be a better area to add the length back into the garment.  

Using size 16 in the shoulder area was okay.  But at the very top of the shoulder, an inch or so front and back, was too long.  I adjusted it before setting the sleeves.  So, there was no need to add in the shoulder blade area.  

The overall size selection was a little bit off.  This has happened with other princess seam dresses like Simplicity S1314.  I ended up doing a lot of tweaking to get the best fit in other areas of my body, resulting in huge seam allowances of 1" or more. 

Simplicity 1314

What I like:  the front yoke and princess seam.

Other changes that I made in my dress:  I hand-picked the zipper and added beads instead of installing an invisible zipper;  I added several inches to the length. The dress is on the short side; I hand-stitched the hems.

Right now, I can consider my dress finished.  But I was thinking of adding some more to the dress to make it extra special.  I thought of adding petals of silk flowers:  one at the side bottom hem area and another at the left shoulder.  Or a small panel of lace somewhere.  

This making it extra special feature may not materialize.  It something that I was thinking about. 

These are my notes on this pattern.  I really like the neckline and hope to incorporate it into another dress or top.  We will see. Lol.

Anyway, I hope this information was useful to other sewists who have similar fit adjustments as I do.  

Happy Sewing!

C 

Spring Fling with Supreme Neoprene

I'm so pleased with this project. What better way to start my spring wardrobe than with a supreme neoprene. I began my hunt for it after I saw a neoprene dress made by Ms. Erica B. Three weeks ago, I found it, the perfect, smooth neoprene.

At first glance I knew I had to have this audacious, attention getting print. I didn't need a swatch to know this fabric was a winner; good quality and sews like a dream. Too bad it's all sold out. Not to worry, Mood has a good selection of neoprene in stock.

Neoprene is on trend now. And Ms. Cookie Lyon (Taraji P. Henson) has a weekly showing of body hugging dresses that are a great source of inspiration. Her "standout" dresses inspired me to pair this fabulous fabric with Simplicity 1314 modified. Of course, I made several modifications to get the fit right for me.

It is a princess seamed dress with some center front and back details. The actual pattern is more a-line than straight. I made view C with the flange used for view D. Also included in the envelope are pants (view A) and sleeved dress (view B). It comes in sizes 6 to 22. I used size 16 with lots of modifications.

My dress is slightly different because of the changes I made. I was going for a slim dress instead of an a-line one. Other than that the dress looks like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope. The instructions were simple and easy to follow.

This was a good choice for the style of dress I had in mind. Princess seams work well with my body shape. And it is easy to make the pattern adjustments. I also like the curve of the dress panels. They add interest to the dress and can be used to create the illusion of a curvier body with a small waist. For my dress though, it's hard to see those details. Finally, I like the way this dress goes together. No sticky points.

I only had one dislike regarding the construction, and it was due to the thickness of the fabric. Where the flange and the armhole facing are finished, It was hard to get a polished finish. So instead of following step 25 I tacked down the facing by hand. The stitching does not show through to the right side of the fabric. I preferred this finishing to the recommended technique.

My usual fit adjustments:
 - FBA - Swayback
 - Prominent Shoulder Blades
 - Inch or two to length of skirt

After making these adjustments. The dress was too large everywhere, even in the bust area. I started with size 16, but the finished dress was between sizes 14 at the neckline and shoulders; 14/16 at bust; 14 waist and hips(with bust adjustment); and 12/10 below the hips. After all of these changes, I will probably use the pattern at least one more time.

I think this pattern is definitely worth a try. I like the design lines and it's not difficult to make. It's a good pattern for a princess seamed sloper dress.

This is my first dress for Spring 2015. I'm so glad that spring is on it's way. Neoprene is a great fabric to wear during this transitional period. The pattern; easy and sew up quickly.

That's all for now.  Happy Sewing!
C