Friday, December 21, 2007

Inspiration Coat and McCall's 5247 - Second Fitting

For the past three days I have been working on the collection coat for my DD. Sixteen hours sent so far. I have completed at 2/3 of the sewing. Let me tell you there have been some challenges:

- Thickness of fabric. There are some areas that have up to eight or ten layers of fabric to sew, which is hard to manage. There is some top stitching needed at the mid-section where the bodice and the skirt are joined. I thought about graded the seam allowance to make it easier. I'm a little concern about burning out the motor on my sew machine. I do have a stand by machine, but my Singer Quantaum DSX is my favorite. As soon as I'm done with completing the last pieces of the fall wardrobe for DD, I have it serviced. I need a industrial sewing machine.

- Alignment of pleats and seams. I think the thickness of the fabric adds to this.

- Matching the lining piece to the altered shell. After making the redraft of the pattern I had to make sure the major divisions of the coat properly met on the inside of the coat. I did not change the drafted lining pattern pieces other than incluing a broad shoulder alteration. I didn't want to add any unnecessary complications. In many ready to wear garments that have mulitple pieces, the lining is simplified. So I followed that same practice.

- Pressing. It's a BEAR! It's so hard to get the tabs and the middle section seams to lie flat, especially in the shoulder area. It makes the seam appear to be uneven. I thought about putting something heavy on it to help the flatten process.

Here's a peek at the progress. Note: There is still some major, major pressing needed. I had DD try it on to see if the fit was okay and to say if everything balanced out. On the left front shoulder and upper arm hole, I need to take out 2/16 inch. It's still too broad. At first try, I thought I cut off the access evenly. Also, I put the pockets in as the direction instructed. They add too much bulk. I'll remove them as well. A pocketless coat. ..,um. The lining will be adjusted; it was cut 2 1/2 inches too long.


  1. Wow, already it is looking extraordinary!!! I see what you mean by the amt of work. I was wondering though whether it would be warm enough. It would be sufficient for our winter here but in the USA??? Did you interline it with some insulating fleece or something?

    Teach your DD to sew!!! Mine just turned 16 and she sews her jeans, and party dresses with minimal help. I help her with muslin and fitting but usually she cannot wait for me to start a piece for her so she will initiate the process. She needs to learn how to install zippers, maybe a couple of small tutorial units would be helpful, I'll have to see.

    I was wondering if taking the coat to a dry cleaner and having them do a final steam press on the seams wouldn't be easier for you and more permanent.

  2. Great looking coat so far.
    I'm wondering, can you take out the pocket as constructed and replace the pocket materials with some rayon twill lining - she'll still have the function of the pocket without the bulk. It's a thought.



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